Alternative UM2 Feeder - version two

Alternative UM2 Feeder - version two

youmagine

Hopefully this will help clear some things up. Update 2015-02-19: A new body has been added to this design, featuring a cutout to use the grommet from the "new" feeders instead of a piece of bowden. Update 2014-11-15: Length variations for the yoke, ranging from 35-40mm, have been uploaded. I also added a zip containing another version that has an included spacer for M16 screws so you don't need to use washers. Six lengths are included in the zip. Update 2014-09-14: The yoke has been updated and made longer as it was noticed it was too short for NinjaFlex. Update 2014-07-29: Parts of the feeder have been re-designed to get rid of a few parts that were causing people problems and also to strengthen it slightly. Here's my second (public) attempt at a new feeder design for the UM2. My goals were to be able to release the filament for quick and easy change between filaments, reuse original parts from the old feeder, minimize friction, and supply additional guidance for flexible filaments (untested at this point and optional to install). I've been printing with this design for about 20 hours now without any issues. That's not a guarantee that you won't have issues, no guarantees here. Instructions: All parts should be printed in the orientation I've supplied them in. You shouldn't use any support, all the support is built into the files and should be fairly easy to remove after printing. I would recommend using a decent amount of infill for strength, I've used 20% so far. I've used 0.08mm or 0.1mm layer height and printed it fairly slow at 40mm/s. On the arm there's a hole for a nut. If it's tight, you can force it into place by inserting a screw from the other side and screwing it tight. If it's annoyingly loose and won't stay in place once you're trying to secure the spring just use a dab of glue. I managed to get it done with a nut that was floating completely free in there though, your patience may vary. On the back of the case, at the entrance you'll find a cutout where you should insert a short piece of bowden tube (you can cut off a small section from your own tube, it won't hurt anything). Force it in with a screwdriver or whatever and it'll snap into place. You may find that the knurled sleeve isn't centered well with the bearing. Loosen the set screw that holds it in place and slide it in a few millimeters if needed.

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