Air tight filament dry box - air-tight Collet, TPU Gaskets, Plastic Axles, No MMU2s side leg

prusaprinters

<p>The combination of replacing the “kludgy” filament slot with an air-tight collet with gasket and PTFE tubing along with adding a gasket to the base groove and sealing the humidistat/thermostat with silicon makes the case near air-tight – allowing for humidity to be reduced and maintained at or below the 10% RH minimum recorded on the humidistat (even in 80% humidity indoors!)</p><ol><li>Place the collet stem through the 10 mm hole in the back side of the top piece. Optionally, print the collet gasket in TPU (or use a 9mm O-ring) and place in the slot in the collet stem base.</li><li>Secure the collet stem with the lock nut from the other side (rounded side out)</li><li>Insert a section of 4mm OD/3mm ID PTFE tubing through the collet nut (the one with the hole in the end) and screw the collet nut onto the collet stem. Screw tight enough to secure the PTFE tubing from slipping</li><li>Optionally, if you are not using tubing and just want to keep to use the filament box to store filament replace the “holed” collet nut with the similar one that has a closed end</li><li>Optionally, when not printing, if you want to keep filament in the dry box and want to minimize air loss, put the sleeve over the other end of the PTFE tubing and slide the filament through the sleeve – this sleeve leaves as little room as possible for air to pass into the end of the PTFE tubing.</li><li>Place the 100mm plastic axles in the bearings and then in the slots (as per the original)</li><li>Optionally, place the rectangular TPU base gasket inside the groove in the top of the base</li><li>Seal the Thermometer/Humidistat with silicon for air-tight seal</li></ol><p>Note that instead of using a desiccant tray, I find it much easier just to throw 1 or 2 50gm desiccant packs on the bottom.</p>