ADXL FYSETC input shaper mount for Ender-3 S1 Pro

thingiverse

NOTE: I was told by a couple of users that the mounting holes didn't line up. Apparently the holes on some of the later extruders were changed slightly further apart. I have uploaded a second version of the extruder mount (V2), which has elongated holes to hopefully address the issue.2 mounts for the FYSETC portable input shaper [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B8MMW2Z9/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A17REXMFA4MBN8&psc=1] for tuning with Klipper.Allows mounting on the Ender-3 S1 Pro extruder using the smaller mount, and on the hotbed using dual neodymium magnets (thank you Oliver1071 for the idea! [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6131157]) for the longer mount.Mounting the input shaper requires removal of the extraneous circuit board ears on each side (score with a sharp exacto and it snaps right off).On the extruder, it mounts on the right side - you'll have to replace 3 of the original mounting screws with ones that are 4mm longer. I would remove it after testing; you want to minimize extruder weight during high speed operations.The sensor itself mounts with 2 M3-12 countersunk screws and appropriate nuts. Put these screws in place first, then mount it on the extruder, then mount the sensor and tighten the nuts. The countersink drag and tight screw fit allows tightening the nuts without access to the screw heads.On the hotbed the magnets provide stability.Note: make sure everything is nice & tight: accelerometers need solid mounts for accuracy. For the hotbet mount I used a flat sheet of 220 sandpaper to smooth out the bottom, and then a layer of gasketmaker pressed against a flat plastic surface to make it as thin as possible. It prevents movement during testing. Also be sure to use neodymium M40-50 magnets (10mm diameter, 2-5mm thick) for a good grip (make sure they are in attractive orientation against the bed!), or use clamps on the edge of the bed. Keep the USB cord slack also so there's no extraneous movement during testing.