Adjustable e3d v6 mount for Vertex K8400

thingiverse

This thing allows you to mount a pair of E3D V6 hotends on a Vertex K8400. The design is stiff, which means no loss of travel occurs on the y and z axes. You can also precisely adjust the height of the two hotends. Instructions: Print out the parts without any support. Remove the existing hot ends and top fan (which you won't be using). Replace the 10-ohm resistor on the extruder board with an 80-ohm one to ensure the small fan gets only 12 volts. Place the infill parts into the top 'xy carriage 2' and fit the mount you have created. You will need to replace the four existing M3 screws with ones that are 60mm long. Insert the four M3 adjusting screws and screw them down until they touch the infill parts you printed. Fit the extruders and refit the small fan with the duct. Take your time to ensure your bed is level. Go to the home position, then move the hotend to the center of the print area, and measure the gap between each nozzle and the bed. Precisely measure the heights of the two nozzles with feeler gauges. Depending on the pitch of the M3 adjusting screws you used, calculate how many degrees the ones on the lower nozzle need to be turned to raise it to the same level as the other one. For example, if the pitch is 0.5mm and there's a height difference of 0.15mm, that requires turning the screws 108 degrees. To make this adjustment easier, you can loosen the four M3 assembly screws holding the print head together by a couple of turns and turn the two adjusting screws on the low side by the right number of degrees. Tighten the M3 assembly screws on the opposite side of the raised nozzle and then tighten those on the side that needs raising. Finally, go to the home position and move the hotend to the center of the print area to measure the gap between each nozzle again. To make adjustments simpler, I've added an STL file of a modified bottom piece for xy2 carriage supports with a wider rim at the bottom to reinforce the hexagon walls and an inset hexagon for 3mm lock nuts. You only need to remove the four M3 assembly screws holding the print head together, replace the existing bottom block with the one you printed, and tighten everything in place. When printing these parts, I find a 1.5% increase in scale produces objects that are identical to the original drawings. Amendment: The file called 'short hotend with level screws' had the hole for access at the wrong spot – it should have been at the top instead of the bottom. There's still some risk that the nut may get pushed out and cause difficulties tightening it later on. I've uploaded a revised version, 'short hotend with level screws2,' which is 1mm longer and places the hole at the right location. If you're re-printing these parts, consider flipping them upside down so that the hexagon recesses are at the top during assembly