A diagonal arm end for the Rostock Max to fit a "sturdy stake"

prusaprinters

<p>This took a few tries, but these rod ends fit well in the end of a chopped off "sturdy stake" from Lowes/etc and fit well around an all metal U-joint for the Rostock Max. It was designed in OpenSCAD and those SCAD files are included, if you wish to modify this for something else.</p> <p>Backstory: My Rostock Max had a diagonal arm snap due to something stupid I did. I did not want to buy a new set from them, so I bandaged one for now using a sturdy stake and went on to design a more permanent replacement.</p> <p>0.8oz for my diagonal rod assembly before gorrilla glue.</p> <p>0.3oz for the Original (the new sturdier version is surely heavier) SeeMeCNC diagonal rod.</p> <p>I could probably trim some weight off by removing the plastic from the outside of the sturdy stake and spray painting it black.</p> <p>The picture shown is an old picture from an earlier version.</p> <h3> Instructions</h3> <p>Print some of these out and cut up some "sturdy stakes" from Lowes or some other place. Place the sturdy stake into the hole. If you do not cut it to the right length, you will need to adjust the firmware for the "radius" till your printer does not have the printing plane bend up or down in the middle of the print bed vs the outside of the print bed. Good luck there.</p> <p>These sturdy stake based arms should be alot sturdier than the original arms. Be careful not to bend the axles though or you may need to get some more axles. If that happens, maybe the 1/8"x6" (3.2mmx152.4mm) aluminum round bar (item 884465 from Lowes may work after sticking it in a drill/dremel and using sand paper on it.</p> <p>Make sure brim is turned on or you might not have enough bed adhesion.</p> <p>You may want to at least drive some nails (straight) into some scrap wood for the holes on the rod ends so you can make sure they are the right distance apart when you glue them.</p> <p>Oh yeah, if you only see 6 in the picture, you will want to print 2 sets of the plated version or plate 12 of the normal ones.</p> <p>For removal, I found that when you have the tube painted black you might be able to heat the tube with a lighter while holding it in a large binder clip and then try to ease it out. If it stretches, you heated it too much and you need to let it cool. I had also removed some with a drill bit to melt the part with friction, but you really have to be careful not to damage the tube that way. Perhaps mounting the rod end with a screw through the tube would be better, but I have not tried it.</p> Category: 3D Printer Parts