9004 Bulb Lock Ring for Ford Trucks (Prob other Makes/Models)

thingiverse

UPDATE!!! I've added V3 files for your convenience, offering a shorter flex clip compared to V2. That's the only difference. V2 is nearly unbreakable, while V3 can break but ABS/Acetone serves as an effective cure, even after or during bulb installation. You wanted to upgrade your old truck or car headlights because they're dim and despite shining them up to get them mostly crystal clear, the light was still underwhelming. You decided to purchase fancy LED lights, thinking they're brighter and this upgrade can't be that challenging. Your first mistake was using the term "upgrade" and "easy" when discussing your older vehicle. Haven't you learned from past experiences? I'm here to assist you with that upgrade! My 87 Ford Bronco features classic 9004 headlight bulbs, which are very common in older and some new vehicles. In many situations, the lock ring is universal due to a consistent fit, so there's no need for it to be fancy. While this design is specific to my Bronco, it will work on any F-X50 from 87 to 92, Econolines of the same year/engine series, and it appears Dodge uses the same ring too. Probably many other manufacturers/models use this lock ring as well. The existing lock rings won't work because they're so deep, not allowing the wire to fit in the space. You can modify them, but I'm unsure how easy it is to replace one, especially considering older vehicles are becoming scarce in junkyards. I've only found one F-150 from my year in any valley junkyard right now. That's why I designed my own lock ring and tried to address the issues I faced with the "simple" install. First, the locking nubs are fixed, allowing for a bit of flex but remaining sturdy. If you snap one, ABS/Acetone glue will come to the rescue! Coating it with glue is not a bad idea to ensure its solidity. I also angled the nubs on the side that contacts the bulb body first to provide an easier slip fit. With mine, it's a bit rough but it has a tight tolerance, and if it's slightly larger, it won't lock the bulb in. So, when installing these, you'll find out quickly that you'll need to use a bit of force to get them in, holding the bulb body around the rubber gasket, not the bulb itself, lining up the new lock ring just right, and then popping it in. It won't be as bad as it sounds, but if the body is not perfectly aligned with the ring, it will be significantly more difficult or even impossible as the angle increases. Be patient, steady, and you'll get it in. The next issue and the biggest one is the wire. These are Hikari, but they all appear to have the same body/build due to being a universal fit. You can be pretty sure it's consistent. The body of the LED bulb is larger because of added fans, making it impossible to get the bulb through the original lock ring due to the seating ring protrusion unless you sand it down a lot. So, I made the seating ring stick out less but still provide a seat. I also included three spaces where it doesn't protrude at all, giving a little extra clearance for that wire. The last thing I addressed was when the wire is fully through, it will be pinched for its entire life if you kept the original full body and height of the lock ring. I kept the height but cut out three large slots for the wire to hang with less stress. I really hope this helps someone turn those old, dangerous night driving headlights into a classic look with modern and safe lighting! I should also mention that because there's no specific way to install this part, you'll have plenty of adjustability to get the LEDs aligned properly. Yes, 9004 and most LED lamps require alignment. What does that mean? It means make sure the covered side of the LED is pointed towards the sky unless you like blinding people; it's not a good idea.