$9.00Resin Curing Chamber

myminifactory

Resin Curing Chamber by Zed Axis LLC Features (when printed and assembled as directed): *Simple design for reliability and ease of assembly *Support free printing *Full light saturation from all angles including below *Fast curing of prints *Small footprint *Reflector cutting templates included *Super low cost DIY solution *Diffuser and reflectors reduce or eliminate hot-spots *Single light source - No LED strips to futz with   Materials Required: *** text includes affiliate links *** Filament: approximately 655g (a little over half of a 1kg spool) of PETG  or another temperature resistant material is HIGHLY recommended for printing the top of the chamber that holds the lamp - the 30 watt UV LED array generates some waste heat that is dissipated by the heat sink built into the housing of the lamp. Most of the heat is directed upwards but the metal that comes in contact with the printed part (the top) does get warm. PLA ~might~ work but I don’t recommend it. All other parts can be printed with whatever you’d like, but I would HIGHLY recommend printing the entire assembly from PETG if possible. The diffuser and platform shown in the pictures were printed from transparent PLA and have tested fine but I would have used transparent PETG  if I’d had any on hand. SainSmart TPU  is what I used for the feet and this is highly recommended.Screws: 10 screws total, sized 6-32 x 1/2inch  OR M3x12  thread locker may be required for M3 screws; M3x10 should work as wellOptional: washers  - 4 total - for holding the lamp on if your screw heads aren’t wide enough to overlap the edge of the housingAluminium foil or reflective tapeGlue stick or spray adhesive if using aluminium foil 30 watt UV LED lamp  Printing Instructions: Build platform print orientations for the individual parts are shown in the images provided. Several of the parts can be printed together to reduce print time as described below. I used 0.2mm layer heights for all parts with combined infill every 2 layers, remaining infill settings and materials are indicated for all parts (below). The only ‘special’ instructions would be regarding the platform that prints sit on during curing - to get the honeycomb mesh pattern as seen in the images, you’ll need to add a cylindrical modifier to the platform part in Prusa Slicer and set bottom and top layers to none (0), and set the infill to 15% honeycomb (image provided).  Diffuser and Reflector Templates: print time: 3h 30m infill: grid, 12% material: PETG, PLA, or ABS color: transparent! Platform: print time: 1h infill: adaptive cubic, 5% material: PETG, PLA, or ABS color: transparent! Bottom and Diffuser Support: print time: 15h 30m infill: adaptive cubic or cubic, 10% material: PETG, PLA, or ABS color: doesn't matter Top and Base: print time: 21h 30m infill: adaptive cubic or cubic, 10% material: PETG, ABS or other temperature tolerant material color: doesn't matter Feet: print time: 45m infill: grid, 20% material: TPU color: doesn't matter   Total Print Time: ~42 hours, 15 minutes Assembly: The images provided should go a long way to show how to assemble the curing chamber but there are a couple of details that aren’t apparent.  The reflector cutting templates should be used to cut out exactly sized strips of either aluminium foil or reflective tape. I would highly recommend using reflective tape as it makes the process much faster but the one shown in the images was done with aluminium foil and a glue stick. Make sure when you glue the strips down that they are shiny side up (aluminum foil has a shiny side and a matte side - matte side goes toward the adhesive) and do your best to work out any air bubbles. I don’t expect that the glue stick that I used is going to provide a very long lasting bond but so far it’s holding up just fine. The feet hold the base onto the bottom of the chamber. You’re unlikely to get a perfect fit and that’s actually ok - some displacement allows for a degree of air flow. When you screw the feet on, they will probably bow a little bit due to the base not sitting flush with the bottom of the chamber - again, this is perfectly fine and even expected - it’s why there are three feet and not four. Four feet would create a wobble, three feet make a solid base even when they’re slightly uneven. This is also a perfect use-case for the flexible TPU filament. All models were designed by Zed Axis LLC and all rights are reserved. These models or the 3d printed parts created from them are not intended for resale of any kind. If you would like to buy a set of these parts directly from me instead of the models, please reach out and I'll be happy to help.