
50 watt COB LED wafer cover
thingiverse
These COB LED units have direct mains input. My cover is designed to protect against electric shock by covering live electrical parts. Be certain to solder carefully, as I do before attaching. Run wires straight out and lay them flat as possible. I've seen some shocking soldering over the years. Here's my guidelines: 1. "Tin" the solder pads quickly with solder; you'll see the surface change as it melts, leaving a shiny blob that is a nice smooth bump tapering down to the pad edges. 2. Strip no more than 4mm from the end of line and neutral conductors, twist them together, apply solder between the iron and copper, and melt it into the wetted area of twisted strands. Recheck for excess tinning and trim if necessary; a thin film of flux should remain on soldered strands. 3. Hold the cable straight, about 30mm from the end, lay it on top, and melt it into the blob on the COB LED. "L" is brown, and "N" is blue in international wiring code for mains. Once the blobs fully merge, remove the iron while holding the wire still; if wires are cooking fingers, you're soldering too slowly. Fixing the COB: You need a big heatsink. Use the 3D cover as a drilling guide. Do an extra hole close by for the earth wire, which must be securely electrically connected. Use 12mm M3 screws or longer; push them up through the heatsink, fit the COB with thermal paste over the screws, and nut it tightly. Then push the 3D cover over the top and nut it on also. Note that you must nut the COB directly to the heatsink, not with the cover, as overheating would soften the cover and lift the COB, allowing more overheat. Be sure to secure the mains cable to the heatsink so that strain does not wear at connections. Paint the heatsink black for better radiation cooling. The second file has a little more pocket for nuts, causing the cover to push back closer to the heatsink.
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