5" Egg Speaker

thingiverse

These cabinets are designed for general 5" speakers, but the ring cover is made specifically for the Sioux CS 130 PRO speakers. If you can't buy the CS 130 PRO, you'll have to adjust it a bit to fit your speaker choice and share or link the new design so we can make these cabinets for all kinds of speakers. You can omit the ring if you want. Speaker hole size is 122 mm / 4.8 in, Cabinet Volume is approximately 5.5 L / 0.194 ft3, and Bass Port is 62.5 x 47 mm / 2.46 x 1.85 in - Depth 120 mm / 4.72 in. The printer needs a minimum build area of 250x250x300mm. Included are the Cura profile I use, with layer height adjustable for better detail and line width to match the nozzle. I use a 0.6mm nozzle and set my line width to 0.6mm to get the Egg just under 1KG filament. For smaller nozzles (like a 0.4mm nozzle), use around 0.4mm line width. Set "Z Seam Alignment" to the center of your bed's X and Y behind the Egg for the best result. I've printed two models so far: the first "square" version, a medium poly version, and I'm working on a high poly version. I print the rings on heated glass for the best results, no glue needed but does require brim to keep warping down. Tap holes are provided for speaker screws; you can always just cut a slit in one screw as a tap if needed, but be sure to thread the holes or layers will split. Use Foam Sealing Tape for the best performance. The small piece of 10mm foam goes in the top and gets held in place between the top and bass port, covering the wall behind the port to minimize midrange escaping out the port. Speakers need to have their crossover upgraded; they sound okay as is (without stock grills), but get a lot better with just adding a coil. However, this requires treble removal: Remove the Sioux "cap" on the back of the speaker. Un-solder the wires. Unscrew the treble. With the treble out, you can remove the 4.7uF capacitor; this needs to go on the back of the speaker with the 0.22mH coil. On the treble, where the capacitor was connected, you need to bridge the terminals with wire. Remember to reverse polarity on the treble! Glue down the capacitor and coil with hot glue on the back of the speaker; I use a lot to make sure the coil stays in place (survived shipping from DK to US). The grill fits Sioux speakers, replaces the metal grill that ruins the highs as it restricts too much. The grill can be omitted, but is included for keeping small fingers away; they pop off easy so add a dab of glue if needed. The best way to remove stock grills is to crush them a little with Polygrip pliers and pull them off; just be careful not to bash in the treble or scratch the plastic. Do this last in the build process. The feet are printed in Ninjaflex. To buy: Sioux CS 130 PRO: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SIOUX-CS-130-PRO-13CM-2-WEGE-KOAXIAL-LAUTSPRECHER/121153891083?epid=1343420954&hash=item1c8b9d8f93 4mm Gold Connectors: http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?browsemode=manufacturer&id=MON128720 Speaker screws: http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=MON122240&browsemode=manufacturer 5" Egg Speakers (old design) is now on Make: Magazine, here you can see more build pictures: https://makezine.com/projects/3d-printed-egg-speakers/ Changelog: 2019/03: Changed bass port to minimize port noise and get a bit lower bass; foam pad needed now is also smaller and has to be placed under port opening in the bottom of the egg. New model comes with less support, but you'll have to use support blocker as pictures show (blue = block support); if you get support under + and - in the back, block that too. 2018/09: * Hole pattern changed a bit * Ring changed to fit speakers better * Added a rod in the top connecting bassport with top of egg reducing resonance and removes need for support in the top