40mm kossel delta rostock E3D v6 metal effector.

thingiverse

This is a slight remix of Mgx's effector, trying to re-use dimensions from original Kossel mini mount holes, and aligning to a more asymmetrical 40 mm rod width. I am still figuring out a 3-d model for machining the M3 mounts. Update: 4/10/2015: I've since made this latest version. I discovered two things. First, the little lip in the middle would get in the way of the screws mounting the arms. Second, the original bracket didn't entirely line up with the holes, and there were some simple dimension issues I didn't like. It is even bigger still, able to pass the entire hot end through the top. I posted the head bracket in Visio for laser cutting out of wood, for example, or if you would rather, there is an STL file for the same thing. You may have to adjust the height, as I laser cut mine, not printed, but they are here for your use. Enjoy! Update: 3/22:2015: I rebuilt it from the ground up... making the holes a little bigger all around... rounding the rod ends in case the angles might cause issues at the extreme edges... but as this is a little bigger head, it will need recalibration. Also made a press-clamp for it, as the earlier holes did not line up right. The mod(v2) and the MK3 are different hole lines. So do take note of the file dates. Update: 3/21/2015: I made an ABS print and am pleased enough with the next iteration. It didn't come out as expected. All holes were too small for M3/M4 respectively. The inside hole was 1.5 mm too small after a print. So I added a slight .25 opening on each. And added 3mm holes all around, in case you want to tap, or just run through in plastic. This should 3D print, and I included the holes for the arms. I'll try a reference print later. Made a couple of C-clamp versions for laser cutting, as I am done with trying to print out anything in plastic to hold something made of metal. Update: 3/20/2015: I went back and took out the old Kossel diameter and went back to the 25mm hole, to be able to pull a whole hotend through it as well as open up other head types in the future. Took out the ovals because they got in the way, and took out the circles to reduce CNC cutting costs. If anyone has ideas on how to add M3 holes that don't affect the rods at the extreme angles like the original model, I'm all ears. Whether I should just tap for M3, or cut outright to M3.5 and include space for an M3 nylock nut as in the original, let me know. If that is the case, I might just start a Kickstarter to have a bunch machined, if there's enough interest... Instructions: I used like a bunch of things, and none of them are exactly what I liked. Trying to print a prototype for a visual, and to validate whether I really need those cones on the ends of the arms, and where/how exactly far I could offset those...