40mm Fan cooled DiamondAge hot end to rostock effector adaptor.

thingiverse

Holds a diamondAge hot end to a rostock effector with a fan to cool all the stuff that needs to be cooled. Chimney.stl lightweight, don't do this one unless all your settings are spot on and you need minimal head mass. ChimneyRobust.stl This is a bit more forgiving, stronger. all the walls are thicker but the working clearances are the same. LEDigloo.stl print this one, after all, it's nice to see the printer working. Get 3 x white 30degree spread angle LEDs and a 470 ohm resistor to power them off 12 volts. Igloo.stl is an annular ring to fit under the effector and direct the air over the near print space. There's a small hole designed into the side to bring out your head and sensor wires. When the hot end is switched off, air rises via convection through the effector, the housing and out the fan openings. Note:LEDigloo2.stl has double wall thickness for the LED entrapments. the first version I released worked, but was fragile. If you were one of the first 40 or so people to download the chimney, you'll have a dead zone on one corner of your rostock build plate. The corrected version has a mounting foot centered straight under the middle of the lowest side of the fan mount. Instructions Both Chimney versions on here are corrected for maximum arm clearance, you can even use a thicker 40mm fan if you need. Don't set your fan to auto if you print yours in PLA, my Gcode switched off my fan mid print and the hot end started melting it's way loose in the PLA clamping tubes. Print a spare! At least I got to try my corrected clearance version after days of good printing with the test one :-) LEDigloo.stl is for 5mm Leds. Use a 30degree spread or wider version. Don't be fooled by high mCandella LEDS, most of these provide only a very narrow cone of light, you need about 30deg spread and this lessens the mCandella rating, The sockets are keyed, though the fine detail may not come out in your print. Place the flat of the LED on the right with the igloo feet side up and the LED hole towards you, spin 120 deg and repeat until finished. Connect all three in series and connect the resistor to the longest (+) lead of the LED closest to the igloo "doorway". Power with 12 volts.