3dverkstan Nerys Remix for making "The Stack"

thingiverse

Some printers perform wonderfully, while others produce an excellent fused solid block of plastic. I have created a revised 4 test sample for the 200x200 bowden and Delta printers. Give it a shot and let me know if it works for you. If it succeeds on multiple machines, I will make the full 35 stack available. On my Flsun Q5, it printed beautifully without any issues, and I didn't need to use any tools. The twist crack pulled them apart with just my fingers. I am going to try it out on more machines now. ------------- First Test print of Final Code done. SUCCESS! I was able to get them apart easily. Use a small screwdriver to wedge the temple apart, and then you can use your fingers to pull them apart. Sweet! Reset temp to 200c if that doesn't work; just bump the temp up a tiny bit (first few layers are still higher temp for good bed adhesion). Gcode and Factory Files updated. DD is Direct Drive without DD is Bowden HO is "heat off" at third visor (saves a ton of power) so The Stack is Bowden heat on entire print. TheStackDDHO is The Stack for Direct Drive with Heat turning off at Third visor. 200mm Delta variation added 200x180 sideways variation added CONFIRMED working machines with this Gcode Anycubic Mega Zero Creality CP-01 (testing now) FLSun Q5 Confirmed Working (little tough to sep but doable) Lotmaxx SC01 Confirmed Working Two Tree Saphire Pro (Testing now) Weedo F152H (Testing now) I will add more as I test and other people confirm go no go back to me. ---------------------- OK, I am working on making this critter more "stack" friendly. I think I got it pretty nicely dialed in. This is still prototype state folks! If you want to try this, let it print 3 stop it and make sure it looks good and seps good on your machine. Changes I made to the model: First, the model has 3 bottom layers, then a hollow frame, and a bevel on the bottom. Problem though - this meant a less than ideal surface on the top for the next airgapped model to print on. So I made some changes. I made the whole model solid so you can "invert" the model with 3 top layers instead of 3 bottom layers. You can't just rotate the model 180 because I need the bevel to stay on the bottom. This fixes that. Print at 1.6 or 160% extrusion multiplier/flow rate, 2 perimeters, 3 top layers, 50% overlap infill at 85% EM/FR no infill (top and bottom layers are also infill to the slicer). I have it modeled as a 35 stack with 210g of PLA. I am testing the solution now (fan on and lowered temp from 225 to 215). Pure PLA should print fine for this - DO NOT use silks! I also suspect PETG won't play nice for this, but with 4 machines, I can crank out 210 of these a day. With just 4 printers!!! I was able to refine the slice down from 36 hours to 22 hours. Nice! Trying to keep it to 24 hours or less so I only have to attend the machines once per day which is ideal. Wake up process the machines start the next batch. Sadly, food consumption is pretty high - 450g per batch so 7 per 1kg roll of printer food. Not horrible but I was hoping for under 330g. Remember this is NOT fully tested; I am still refining it. It can require tweaks from machine to machine! Mostly flow rate and speed (more and less). I program mine to turn off the heat bed when it gets to part 3, but this sample gcode and factory file the heat bed stays ON (for those glass bed users). I can't afford the E for that many machines running 24/7. Already pushing $100 a month in E alone for the machines! Let me know if you discover any tricks and if you have success. This is REV2; if I make any changes, I will change the rev number so stay tuned for updated if I need to make any. I think I am really close to licking it. And thank you to 3dverkstan for making it and Devon Montes Make Anything for reminding me about this process. I played with it a few years ago but had forgotten about it; he did a nice video on it!