3D printed wheels for the Ikea LACK table

prusaprinters

<p>This is a 2-axis 3D printed wheel made for the famous Ikea LACK table.</p><p><br>It uses a couple of DIY bearings. The azimutal one is easy to assemble, but the wheel a little 3Dprinting trick. It must be tweaked <strong>BEFORE you print</strong> the parts.<br><br>So, please<strong> read the following BEFORE you start printing</strong>&nbsp;<br>(Otherwise you'll end up putting a single star to this model because “it doesn't fiiiiiit I give uuuup uh uh uh”)…</p><p><br><br>WHAT YOU NEED :&nbsp;</p><p>- A 42mm M8 hex bolt with its nut (if you can't find it, get a 50mm one and a saw !)<br>- A 26mm M10 bolt (or any other M10 bolt, as long as you can use a saw), its bolt and a washer<br>- A dozen 6mm Airsoft BBS (the balls for your bearings).<br>- The SIX 3D printed parts (I know there are only FIVE files, but the “SpacerV2” part must be printed twice)<br><br>THE TRICK :</p><p>The so-called wheel is made of two printed parts, held together by the embedded 6mm BBS.&nbsp;<br>BUT if you skip this description, you'll quickly notice <i>you can't</i> assemble the wheel and the balls <i>after</i> printing.<br>You must print the two parts (named InBearingV2 and OutBearingV2)<i> in place</i>, and pause the printer when<i> half of the parts are made</i>, to put the 6mm balls in the groove by hand, then hit resume.<br><br>In practice, using Prusa Slicer, <strong>you must center the two concentric wheel parts then pause the printer at mid-print</strong> (or slightly more), manually or by doing as if you were switching to a different filament color.</p><p>It's easy to do, but<strong> I recommend printing InBearingV2 and OutBearingV2 separately </strong>(just in case something goes wrong - for example if the printer head hits the balls).<br><br>Take a look at the pictures, you'll get the point instantly.<br><br>&nbsp;</p>