3D Printed Pulse Energizer For Radiant Energy (5.125" Diameter)

thingiverse

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yi_3kPt-0eY&t=75s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Z763gdGOG8 https://1drv.ms/f/s!Apbifed6cvBmbjLYdzp4fQzMWGA This video shows running it up to destruction. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPrsLvrOsKw&t=27s Pulse motors typically do not get hot when wired correctly. They are not to be confused with DC Brushless motors, which use advanced circuits to pulse energy through the coils. This pulse motor represents a tool to experiment with. I use the Bedini SSG circuit to pulse this energizer. You can learn about that technology here: http://www.energyscienceforum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=48. It's a simple circuit that most people can learn to put together in a short period of time. This company offers a Bedini SSG Circuit kit that will work with this energizer: http://teslagenx.com/kits/tx-sg4tub.html?category=kits|pcb. You can use other methods to pulse if you desire. Disclaimer: Build and experiment at your own risk. Catastrophic failure of parts spinning at high speed can cause damage to property, injury, or even death. There is an electrical function with this experimental device. Do not attempt without experience working with electricity. Do not operate around equipment that is sensitive to electromagnetic frequencies. Parts List: The magnetic wire is your choice. Transistors: The slots are made to fit the mjl21194g transistor. It uses a double stack of popular-sized ceramic magnets (1-7/8" X 7/8" X 3/8") like these: https://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-2-ceramic-block-magnets-97504.html All bolts are 6-32. For the inner motor, you can use 3/8" length at every point. For the motor housing, you can use 1" to 1.125" at every point. It's essential to note here that nonmagnetic hardware (brass, stainless steel, nylon) allows for the best performance. Shaft: 1/2" X at least 6" stainless steel or aluminum Magnet rotor set screw: 6-32 x 3/8" Rear shaft nut: 6-32 x 1" Updated Designs: 2/24/2018 I added a magnet cover for additional support. This should add some safety when spinning at higher rpm's. A better option would be a fiberglass or carbon fiber layer. This should also be accompanied with 100% infill on the rotor for high-speed experiments. Also, don't forget to glue your magnets in place. I like Gorilla Glue. It seems to handle shock and vibration the best. Make sure you use water or it won't set properly. 2/25/2018 I added some small panels to help keep the "Window" wire off of the rotor. I recommend using Loctite (5 sec) Super Glue. Just dab a little on each end and attach them to the center. 2/26/2018 Added 1/16" shaft spacers which may be needed to provide a snug fit for the rotor between the bearings 3/01/2018 I added some slightly more robust parts for those who want to run it up to higher rpm's. The trade-off here is stronger parts but more plastic + longer print times. I still recommend printing at higher infills (greater than 30%) and gluing your magnets in place. It is also still recommended to create at least 1.2mm walls. These parts are listed as #1, #2, and #3. They are still interchangeable with the other listed parts. Sorry, these are for 8mm rods and bearings only. 01/16/2019 I added a simple low-profile motor mount. You can use this to mount to a project board. It is a minimalistic design so that you can print fast and use for light-duty experiments. 02/07/2019 One of the biggest issues that I have had with this design is keeping the wires from rubbing against the rotor. The wire_protector design is somewhat flimsy. So, I designed a new wire/rotor protector that is more rigid. It will also help better organize and concentrate the magnetic flux and should offer better performance according to the wiring diagram that I have provided. They are made to glue to each side of the motor ribs but I have found that with my prints they actually just snap in place! Pictured in Hatchbox Gold PLA filament.