3D Printed + Lasercut Prusa i3 (MK3 MK2 MK1) Enclosure

prusaprinters

<p>I use a lot of Nylon for my combat robot prints and thus I needed an enclosure to prevent warping. I wanted something simple, lightweight and removable, and with an easy to access door. I ended up using 80/20 hinges for the door, and acrylic which I lasercut for every single panel. All panels are joined using 3D printed brackets and 1/4-20 x 3/8 screws. It's a bit floppy with 1/8" (3mm) acrylic but it definitely gets the job done and looks good too! (<a href="https://bit.ly/Qt20Screw">https://bit.ly/Qt20Screw</a>)</p> <p>I've included the Fusion files for the brackets, DXFs for al laser cut panels, and here is a link to download the entire CAD model for the full enclosure if you wish to modify it. <a href="https://a360.co/2WJzDTU">https://a360.co/2WJzDTU</a></p> <p>Be careful with the screws, do not over-tighten or it will crack acrylic or polycarbonate. I made that mistake with one panel. Oops...</p> <p>I also designed a spool holder that takes 1-inch PVC pipe, but I generally print out of a DIY dry box so I don't really use it. I modeled some 1/4-20 to straight shank pegs and tried using those on the spool holder bottom to make it hot-swappable, but the thing will lean to one side unless there are two roughly balanced spools on it so I recommend just screwing it to the top panel if you want to use it.</p> <p>Check out my Youtube channel to see what I've done with it! <a href="http://bit.ly/JustCuzYoutube">http://bit.ly/JustCuzYoutube</a></p> <h3>Print instructions</h3><p>All printed components need sufficient walls and small enough layer height for the printed threads to be usable, so I'd go with .1-.15 layers and 3 or 4 walls. Infill is less important, &gt;15%. All parts print with no supports.</p>