3d printed joystick for t16000m hotas

thingiverse

This Joystick Mod Transforms the T16000M Budget HOTAS Flight Stick into a More Usable Form Factor, Integrating Additional Buttons for Enhanced Gaming Experience. The primary motivation behind this design is to capitalize on the excellent gimble and twist yaw of the T16000M, which remains one of the few joysticks with these features that I personally consider essential. However, the flight stick's layout itself is a significant drawback, prompting the need for a redesign. Originally, I started with the B8 Flight-Stick model from @schrodingers_cat and modified it to include more buttons, increased size, and hollowed out wire channels, eventually evolving into the final design shared here. This was one of my initial Fusion360 designs, and while not the cleanest, it showcases my creative approach to problem-solving. When embarking on this project, I had several key objectives: a two-stage trigger, two hats, a pinky trigger/button, working twist yaw, and numerous additional buttons compared to the original T16K. I am proud to have achieved all of these goals. The most challenging aspect was undoubtedly the two-stage trigger design, which required trial and error to perfect. Photos of the CAD can be found at https://imgur.com/a/W3PXM81, while photos of the final result are available at https://imgur.com/a/12VBn5L. Assembly Instructions: 1. Begin by attaching the left half to the stick using the original screws. Remove the 4 screws holding the gimbal base plate and shift everything 90 degrees to the left. This allows for the spring inside the model, but unfortunately requires manual remapping of axis settings in each game. 2. Sand the hats to ensure a smooth fit for the TACs. Attach two legs to the bottom of each hat assembly and solder in the grounds. Soldering the positive leads may require trial and error if no wiring diagram was created beforehand. The lower hat has an open bottom, while the upper hat has a closed bottom; be sure to position them correctly. 3. Secure both hats with super glue after ensuring the wires are properly routed. The Trigger Group: * Position and wire everything as shown in the photos at https://imgur.com/a/DeFYrHn. * Cut approximately 10-13mm of thread off a standard M3 screw and thread it into the corresponding brass thread on the right half. This will serve as the endstop for the second stage of the trigger. * Use an old M3 standoff peg to set the endstop for the first stage. Wiring the Right Half and Trigger Group: * Due to limited space, good luck is necessary when wiring the right half and trigger group in place. Ensure that your trigger group wires are tucked up towards the top of the stick and do not bind when the trigger is actuated. Once both halves are assembled, you can drop the hat caps into place. These are removable, allowing for customization with different styles and sizes. Liquid electrical tape makes a suitable grippy coating for the hats if printed plastic feels unpleasant. The Pinky Trigger: * Requires two M3 screws with a smooth collar of about 20-5mm. Chop off all but approximately 5mm of thread from the end of each screw to create a sliding rail for the pinky trigger. * Add one or two pen springs to your liking, ensuring the pinky buttons' rail holes are smooth for a seamless action. Adjust spring size until you are satisfied with the result.