3D Printed Dremel Lathe

prusaprinters

<p>3D Printed Dremel Lathe</p><p>Precision lathe for most Dremel models intended for fine hobby work (dolls house spindles, model locomotive funnels, wargames canon barrels, etc). &nbsp;Only tested with a Model 800 but should work with any Dremel with the standard collet screw.</p><p>The workpiece can be up to about 48 mm dia. and about 70 mm long but I've included a base extension piece that extends the length by 130 mm (per extension used).</p><p>The tool rest slides in and out or can be removed.</p><p>NOTE: &nbsp;The tool rest has been redesigned and can be found at -</p><p>https://www.printables.com/model/268675-new-tool-rest-for-the-dremel-lathe</p><p>The locknut on the end of the main head screw is used to adjust the tailstock position. &nbsp;Use a driver or electric screwdriver (for speed) with a 13 mm socket or turn by hand.</p><p>NOTE: &nbsp;I've designed an extension to the lathe that includes a hand crank to speed up adjustment of the tailstock. &nbsp;You can find it at -</p><p>https://www.printables.com/model/176086-geared-crank-add-on-for-dremel-lathe</p><p>The pics are self-explanatory but note that the photographs are from the prototype - many minor and superficial refinements have been introduced to the STL files since.</p><p>I've used this with wood dowels and hardened Milluput ‘blobs’ (mounted on chopped up 2 mm dia. nails, etc) but I've NOT tried it on metal as I'm only using home-made tools from cut down needle files. &nbsp;Let me know if you have any success with other materials.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Materials: &nbsp;PLA (other materials may require scaling adjustments)<br>Layer height: &nbsp;(see gcode filenames for layer heights per part)<br>Infill: &nbsp;15% on all parts<br>Brim: &nbsp;None<br>Supports: &nbsp;(already configured in the 3MF files)</p><p>Non-printables:</p><p>8 mm threaded rod (210 mm + 130 mm per extension if required)<br>2 x M8 locknuts<br>2 x M3 x 12 hex bolts<br>2 x M4 x 20 hex bolts and nuts<br>2 x M4 x 16 hex bolts and nuts<br>4 x M4 x 18 hex bolts and nuts<br>5 x M4 x 30 hex bolts and nuts<br>2 x M4 x 6 hex bolts<br>2 x M2 x 12 hex bolts</p><p>2 x M3 nuts<br>15 x M4 nuts<br>2 x M2 nuts</p><p>2 x 6 mm x 6mm extension springs (quite strong - to support the Dremel body)<br>2.5 mm dia x 15 mm nail (turned to a point for the tailstock collet)</p><p>Assembly Notes:</p><p>Drop the M8 locknut down into the slot in the headstock and jam it with a small screwdriver while screwing in the 8 mm threaded rod - don't screw it much past the end of the nut as it must spin with the rod.</p><p>All the nuts (except the M8s and the collet tension M3s need to be either tapped into place with a light hammer or by using the Prusa method of employing a long threaded bolt to pull the nut into position then unscrewing the bolt. &nbsp;Using a hammer is more satisfying, though.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Usage Notes:</p><p>A standard Dremel chuck won't accept anything much bigger than a 3mm dia. rod so for larger dia. stock either drill the end and insert and glue a rod or use the Dremel screw-head bit on the workpiece. &nbsp;In either case, if using the tailstock (on long workpieces) drill a small pilot hole in the end to engage the pointy tailstock pin (there's probably a name for that bit).</p><p>WARNING:</p><p>For working on short stock I recommend you remove the tailstock collet (or the whole tailstock) as the turned nail will be extremely sharp and could cause injury. &nbsp;For this same reason leave the tailstock collet off while assembling the lathe.</p>