3D Printed Circuit

thingiverse

I'm creating a custom 3D printed circuit board, and so far it's going pretty well. The conductive glue paint model turned out great, and connecting a CR2032 battery to the circuit using a wire is working just fine. The Arduino IDE makes programming many different ATTINY chips easy as can be, thanks to its built-in capabilities as an ISP (In-System Programmer) or ICSP. For more information on getting started with Arduino, I'd recommend checking out this tutorial at http://www.arduino.cc/http://highlowtech.org/?p=1695 It seems that some conductive materials just don't get the job done, and I found that using a traditional paint or paste worked much better than the ABS material from Makergeeks. For a complete breakdown of how to program your ATTINY84 microcontroller using the Arduino IDE, check out this datasheet: http://www.atmel.com/Images/doc8006.pdf To keep LED lighting powered up at 3V without overheating or malfunctioning, you don't actually need any resistors – I just discovered that. On my SMT project, though, a proper connection is still a little tricky to achieve. For my circuit board design in AutoCAD Inventor, this project was one of the first I've made so far as a complete novice with 3D CAD modeling tools. Now I have some fresh knowledge and experience – it will definitely get put into use right away! Instructions: A few basic steps were taken to turn this design concept into an actual prototype circuit board. Starting off in AutoCAD Inventor and saving it to an STL format requires choosing millimeters for the export dimensions specifically in order to achieve good results when you print using a Flashforge Creator X 3D printer. As my normal setup is usually the combination of MakerWare or similar slicing programs combined with flashing settings through newer firmware options, Sailfish Version 7.6 on software updated at 215°C hotend temperatures plus bed heating to exactly 55°C were actually achieved for this trial model creation session