3D Printable Jet Engine, motorized - remix

thingiverse

This build is a remix of Rolumix's motorized version, which itself is a remix of CATIAV5FTW's original. I've made significant changes to enhance functionality and usability. The key modifications include: • Fully enclosing the front bearings • Adding a window into the rear strut for improved access • Implementing alignment features on items that were previously simply screwed together using flat faces • Strengthening the internal motor coupling to accommodate our material selection • Hollowing out several parts to optimize them for our 2-material MJP printer • Designing an additional piece at the front, a nacelle nose, although it's too large for our printer and will require creative splitting or printing methods I've also added modeled threads directly into plastic for screws, eliminating the need for separate screw anchors. The original models included shim rings to adjust spacing during assembly. However, I had to create custom shims due to material differences between my damaged and replacement parts. This version omits shims entirely; you'll need to experiment with your own assembly to determine the optimal settings. I've used high-quality plastic bearings with stainless or glass balls to minimize strain on the motor, which comes from Pololu.com (item # 3252) - a 12V motor with a 34:1 reduction. For display purposes, I've attached a variable power supply and run it at 3V; if you prefer a slower rotation speed, consider a higher gear reduction. Assembly relies heavily on M2.5x8 button head screws, thin nuts (1.6mm), and 0.5mm washers on both sides. Stainless steel screws, nuts, and washers are used throughout. The motor mounts with M3x6 flat head screws, while the shaft is secured using M3x12 flat head screws - a long Allen wrench will be necessary for this task. For the electrics, I've employed a socket to match one of the tip choices on the variable power supply cord and a simple DPDT rocker switch (used as a DPST) to completely disconnect the motor when it's off. Small connectors are required between the stand and rear strut, as well as between the rear strut and motor. The 'panel' on the stand remains blank for you to customize with holes suited to your specific components.