3D-printable Glidecam

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My 3D-printed Glidecam is a game-changer for videographers on a budget. This DIY alternative to commercial models delivers exceptional performance without breaking the bank (in my expert opinion). The parts were designed with functionality in mind, resulting in some complex geometries that require support material. Don't worry; removing the supports is a breeze since they're relatively large and easy to peel off. For optimal results, use a thick shell and high infill settings (2mm and 40% recommended), especially for the gimbal components. The lower rail parts can be printed with lighter settings since they only need to provide stability without bearing significant loads. To assemble the Glidecam, start by inserting the three-part inlay into the 6005 bearing, making sure the threads align perfectly. Next, slide the 20mm tube through the inlay and secure it with the clamps. For the 608 bearings, heat them up until they start smoking (be cautious not to damage rubber-sealed bearings) and press them into the plastic parts. If you're confident in your printing skills, you can also press them in without heating. If you've printed the parts in ABS, consider softening them with acetone vapor before pressing in the bearings for a tighter fit. Let me know if these methods don't work for you; I'll adjust the parts to accommodate a looser fit. The crown is epoxied into the top of the extending 15mm tube to provide additional stability. A short piece of 20x1mm tube needs to be glued to the handle part, and a drop of superglue can help secure the bike grips. You can shorten the lower rail tubes for improved maneuverability, but this will make the Glidecam more sensitive to rotation, so use caution when using lightweight cameras without counterweights. The extension tube can also be shortened if you're running low on 15mm tubes, but keep in mind that a longer tube provides added stability. To ensure secure assembly, apply threadlock to all bolts, particularly those holding the bearings in place. Adjusting the bearing drag by pre-tensioning the bolts will fine-tune your Glidecam's performance. The center bearing mount and gimbal arm require tapping for M8 screws, while the grip part needs a M8 nut on the opposite side of the bearings. I'm still refining the lower extension clamp design; the v2 version uses a similar mechanism to the top bearing holder with tapered finger-nuts, but I'm not entirely satisfied with its performance. The current v1 clamps better, but introduces some stabilization issues due to off-center bolts. Balancing your Glidecam is a breeze thanks to numerous YouTube guides available for Glidecams. To achieve self-leveling, use the 3-second-rule and adjust it accordingly; faster values will improve leveling speed, while slower values will reduce tilting as you move the rig around. All STL files are optimized for best results, with those starting with an "s" in their filename requiring support material. The included zip file contains Solidworks source files, although some parts may not display correctly on other installations due to compatibility issues.