3D FPV Camera and TX for Skyzone and similar

thingiverse

This is a replacement 3D camera designed for Skyzone 3D goggle sets. It weighs two-thirds less than the original unit, features wider spaced cameras for enhanced 3D effects at greater distances, and combines cameras and transmitters into one compact unit. The size is comparable to a GoPro and easily fits on a 250 quad. A photo showing its size compared to the stock unit and separate transmitter has been included. I use this replacement camera for fixed-wing flying with my Bixler, achieving good range with two 600mW transmitters. The following components are required: Two TS5828 micro 600mW transmitters (widely available on eBay) Two 700tvl miniature cameras with 15mm x 15mm body (also widely available on eBay) A small amount of Vero board Two suitable heat sinks (optional) Connectors come with the cameras and transmitters, but additional servo connectors may be needed for power and OSD connections. Set the two transmitters to radiate at 5771Mhz for the right eye and 5733Mhz for the left. This is the default setting for Skyzone goggles in 3D mode. If necessary, you can adjust this setting (refer to the manual). Refer to my diagram and connect the cameras and transmitters as shown. Use a small piece of veroboard that fits into the provided compartment, or simply connect everything together to save space. If using the same voltage for both camera and transmitter, join the Vcc track and use one power feed from the OSD. Otherwise, use separate power feeds. The Vector, for example, provides two regulated feeds for the camera and TX, which can be 12 volts each or one 5v and the other 12v. If you don't want to use OSD, simply connect the OSD out data lead to the OSD in data lead (bridge the tracks on the veroboard). You may have noticed that the OSD is only displayed on one channel. This is normal and won't affect performance. The added depth perception provided by the foreground OSD compensates for this. After wiring the loom, insert the cameras, ensuring they fit tightly and are parallel to each other (They must be exactly parallel). You might not want to glue them yet as there's a bit of wiggle room if adjustments are needed. Insert the transmitters, with heat sinks facing inwards. The transmitters come without heat sinks, but they can get too hot, so I added heat sinks for better performance. Ensure the fins on the heat sinks face forward and aft to align with airflow. Attach antennas and tighten them onto the transmitters to secure the unit in place. Connect the loom connections to TXs and cameras, and you're ready to test. If you don't get a 3D effect, it's likely that the wrong camera is connected to the wrong channel; simply swap the TX connectors over. Make sure the registration of the 3D image is good (no double images or ghosting). If not, wiggle the cameras until it's good. When satisfied, glue them in place using a small amount of hot glue on each.