3D Delta Printer Magnetic Effector and 40mm fan duct to suit Rostock / Kossel style printer with adapter for E3D hot end

thingiverse

I've designed a custom 3D delta printer magnetic end effector to perfectly match my customized aluminum hotend, ideal for 1.75mm filament printing. Check out the build process on my blog at http://d3delta3d.blogspot.com/ and see the device in action through this video link http://youtu.be/_RzzDTeKAJ0. The magnetic end effector utilizes ten 10mm diameter N42 magnetic balls that are securely bonded to six recesses located atop the device using JB adhesive. The distance between each ball's center is precisely sixty millimeters. As an alternative, steel balls could be used along with embedded magnets in the rods, but I've opted for this reversed approach. Also included is a universal adapter compatible with the E3D hotend, suitable for users not utilizing custom machined designs. This two-piece component attaches securely to the effector using five 4mm cap screws and nuts. The printer's base design borrows from the Rostock max framework to take full advantage of expanded build spaces. The hotend is safely embedded through the top of the magnetic end effector and firmly locked into position with five 4mm cap screws and matching nuts, guaranteeing complete stability. Furthermore, a sturdy fan duct is screwed beneath the efector plate via two strong 4mm cap screws. Adequate clearance has been maintained between the fan duct and hotend heat sink fins to minimize vibration occurrences when they're in close proximity. Notably, the device's center of gravity is strategically positioned seven millimeters below its underside surface, which makes it incredibly well-balanced for even faster print speeds. Additionally, the entire assembly tips the scales at around 140 grams. To facilitate assembly, M4 nuts are pressed into the pre-molded recesses within the end effector plate. For securing the thirty-six millimeter fan in place, use either four millimeter screws to lock it firmly or alternatively tap M4-sized holes and fasten using cap screws – a method that worked for me during its development.