37mm Payload Cups - Multiple Configurations - 1.295"OD/1"ID for Flare Launcher Round

thingiverse

WARNING! These models are not suitable for real-world use out of the box as a 3D-printed item. They may be okay with a non-igniting payload, but paired with an igniting payload, they would be unsafe as the models tend to break apart near the base. A better option would be using these printed models to make a mold and then casting the models using a more suitable material. Keep your hands off the chamber area/barrel when firing 37mm flare launchers and stay safe with your loads! Use these designs at your own risk! I accept zero responsibility for their use or misuse. 3D-printed materials tend to be weak, making molds and castings based on these prints may be a better idea. Use them at your own discretion. These models are only here to help people in the hobby. It might be best to just use cardboard tubes available and a bit of hot glue to affix one of these end caps to the top for looks, such as the hollow or flat. This would be similar to people preparing normal cardboard tubes and affixing an Easter egg to the top. This is intended as an easily customized 3D printable payload cup designed for 37mm flare launchers. They are intended as non-firearm parts for a 37mm flare launcher, intended payloads would be making fireworks using flying fish or crackling fuse, smoke with proper vent holes drilled by end-user, or OC containers. Please observe and follow all local and federal laws regarding 37mm reloading, remember you are not allowed to create any anti-personnel rounds without first registering your launcher as a Destructive Device so be careful with your combination of printed parts/payloads chosen. I suggest registering your 37mm as a DD if you intend to be reloading any unique projectiles just so you won't have to worry about it. I am unsure how actually printing and using some of the end caps could be viewed legally though they are very similar to those commercially available. Stay within the boundaries of the law! The OD of the cup is 1.297" and the ID is 1". It was designed to be used with rubber bands wrapped around the base where it contacts top of shell to stabilize it or tape may be used. Just make sure its not tighter than a slip fit, you don't want any chance of it getting stuck in the hull. If using a burst charge for pyrotechnic loads, make sure there is plenty of time for fuse and that the empty space between bottom of payload cup and burst cup is filled with glue or somehow completely isolated from the lift charge. You do not want the lift charge to set off the burst charge accidentally if something fails. In other words, if it's unsafe to go off in your barrel, it's probably unsafe to load in these payload cups. Making molds of these and casting is a much better idea than using straight out of the box 3D printed parts. It should fit the reloadable shells by: exoticammo.com, exotic-firearms.com, americanspecialtyammo.com, reloadableshells.com. Fit on these can be adjusted with some tape or rubber bands near the base but be sure not to make your projectile too tight in the shell. Also, if you print the models at 92% scale then it should fit the screw apart shells by MLR Distributing. You may also print the parts at a larger scale to be closer to a slip fit for your chosen application. Please tip if you like this file so I can devote more time to designing similar models! Post-Printing: If you used any support material/rafts etc when printing, you may need to clean up the ID of the tube that contacts the support of the end caps. You can use a butter knife, sandpaper, or a small file, it should not be a chore. You can try printing the end caps nose down to avoid cleanup though the flat end cap or base plates should be printed large face down as the file comes oriented. The parts are a snap fit and aren't meant to come back apart easily, so don't put your end cap on until you're ready. I think these parts would be extremely simple to cast once printed.