37mm Finned Payload Cup 1.350"OD for 3"+ Shell Flare Launcher Round

thingiverse

WARNING! These models are not suitable for real-world use straight out of the box as a 3D printed item. They may be okay with a non-igniting payload, but paired with an igniting payload, they would be unsafe due to the tendency of the models to break apart near the base. A better, though untested option, would be using these printed models to make a mold and then casting the models using a more suitable material. Remember to keep your hands off the chamber area/barrel when firing 37mm flare launchers and stay safe with your loads! Use these designs at your own risk! I accept zero percent responsibility for their use or misuse. 3D printed materials tend to be weak, making it potentially hazardous to actually use 3D printed parts in this manner. Making molds and castings based on these prints may be a better option. Use at your own discretion. These are only here to help people in the hobby. Even so, it might be best to just use cardboard tubes available and some hot glue to affix one of these end caps to the top for looks, such as the hollow or flat. It would be similar to people preparing normal cardboard tubes and affixing an Easter egg to the top. Be safe! This is intended as a printable payload cup designed for 3"+ shells for 37mm flare launchers. They are intended as non-firearm parts for a 37mm flare launcher, with intended payloads being making fireworks using flying fish or crackling fuse, smoke with proper vent holes drilled by the end user, or OC containers. Please observe and follow all local and federal laws regarding 37mm reloading, remembering you are not allowed to create any anti-personnel rounds without first registering your launcher as a Destructive Device so be careful with your combination of printed parts/payloads chosen. I suggest registering your 37mm as a DD if you intend to be reloading any unique projectiles just so you won't have to worry about it. I am unsure how actually printing and using some of the end caps could be viewed legally, though they are very similar to those commercially available. Stay within the boundaries of the law! The maximum outer diameter of the finned Payload Cup or Pusher Cup is 1.350". It was designed to be used with rubber bands wrapped around the fins and the flat at the top of the cone where it contacts the top of the shell to stabilize it, or tape may be used. Just make sure it's not tighter than a slip fit; you don't want any chance of it getting stuck in the hull. If using a burst charge for pyrotechnic loads, make sure there is plenty of time for fuse and that the empty space between the bottom of payload cup and burst cup is filled with glue or somehow completely isolated from the lift charge. You do not want the lift charge to set off the burst charge accidentally if something fails. In other words, if it's unsafe to go off in your barrel, it's probably unsafe to load in these payload cups. Making molds of these and casting is a much better idea than using a straight-out-of-the-box 3D printed part. Remember to test with a non-igniting payload first! The fit on these can be adjusted with some tape or rubber bands near the base on the fins or tape around the pusher cup and tape around the top of the cone to keep the projo in shell but be sure not to make your projectile too tight in the shell. You may also print the parts at a larger scale to be closer to a slip fit for your chosen application. Please tip if you like this file so I can devote more time to designing similar models! Print Settings: Printer: Monoprice IIIp v2 / Wanhao Duplicator / Prusa I3 Clone Rafts: Doesn't Matter Supports: No Resolution: .3mm layer height or lower Infill: 100% Notes: The file assembly.stl is just a visual of how to assemble the round once completed, it is not meant to be printed nor should it be an indication of the orientation of how files are to be printed. All files come in the orientation as to how they should be printed and I suggest leaving them how they are because they are arranged in such a way as to need no support material as long as you can print 60-degree overhangs. This allows for faster/cleaner prints and less wasted filament. Please let me know how things go for you or if you have any trouble with any of my projects. I try my best to make sure my projects are easy to replicate with success. The stronger parts are the long finned projo's. Also, I do not recommend using these out of the box as 3D printed parts but instead using the 3D printed parts to make molds and cast the actual projo's.