300mm Pond Racing Outrigger! V6.4 Uploaded!

thingiverse

This is Version 6.3 of my pool/pond racing outrigger! The empty hull weighs in at 62-67g depending on print quality, and the complete boat could weigh as little as 110g, or up to 165g. This tiny guy rips through water, and the best part? Every piece is included, except for one small push rod, one 2mm bicycle spoke, one small bolt, and one nut! Instructions Okay guys, the boat is actually really simple, and printing is the longest part! Print the sponsons and aft float assists completely hollow (no infill) with at least a .6mm wall thickness. If this wall thickness is not met, the parts will likely break when inserting the sponson arms. Depending on printer quality and speed, the boat can be printed in as little as 3 hours, or as long as 8+ hours. Parts and opening may need a bit of adjusting or cleaning up depending on printer accuracy. Construction: 1) Insert sponsons into both tub halves, and clean up the top opening if you have to. 2) Use medium-thickness CA around the stepped area to join the two tub halves. Make sure to keep the sponson arms between the two halves; otherwise, they will be hard to insert later! At this point, the halves are joined, and the sponson arms should be loose. 3a) These next steps can happen in any order. I prefer to glue in the aft float assists. To do so, apply a layer of CA all around the "male" insert, then along the inside (the side that will meet up with the tub) perimeter to keep water out. Insert the "male" pegs into the tub and press lightly until the CA dries. Repeat for the other side. 3b) Apply CA to the opening of a sponson (do not fill it or it will splooge!), then insert the sponson all the way in until it comes to a complete stop. If the sponson is not inserted all the way, it may end up crooked and cause a bad turning tendency. Apply a fillet of CA around the joint to ensure it is watertight and secure. Repeat this step for the opposite side. 4) Now your hull is almost complete! All pieces should be together with the sponson arms still loose. Align the arms (sponson tip to sponson tip) as accurately as you can, ensuring they are straight. Tip: measure from the back, outer corner of one sponson to the back outer corner of the same side aft float; adjust until both sides measure the same! This is crucial as incorrect alignment will cause an ill-handling boat! Once everything is straight, apply CA in a filleting fashion around the arm and tub joint on each side. 5) Drill out the motor mount and bolt in your motor. Slide the motor and motor mount into the slot provided on the tub. Insert the full-length bicycle spoke (2mm diameter!) into the shaft guide tube, and align it with the output shaft of your motor! Accuracy is crucial to prevent drag on your motor, which could burn it up! Once you are satisfied, glue in the shaft guide tube and ensure a watertight seal with CA. 6) Cut prop shaft to fit properly. The threaded portion is for the prop (self-tightening), and should be at the very back of the boat. Thread the smooth portion into the end of the motor adapter; thread onto the motor (self-tightening). The rest is pretty self-explanatory. Assemble the rudder and electronics as you see fit. My setup: Maytech 1806-2300kv motor 10A Turnigy Plush 4g 4ch Air RX 460 Mah 3s battery (too heavy; better to keep the boat light!) micro servo (6g) 2-blade prop If you use a similar power system, the drive line will work; however, it may require minor modification for proper fit. BOTH props and the motor adapter are self-tightening. Locktite or glue is NOT required.