3 point bed holder for tehnologika.net y-carriage

thingiverse

Here is the rewritten text: I'm designing a 3-point plate holder for my Y-carriage from TEHNOLOGIKA. The aluminum plate isn't needed because I have a piece of borosilicate glass with a heater glued directly to it, so no screws are required through the glass or heater. As you can see in one of the pictures, this 3-point system is compatible with your original heated PCB bed (with or without glass on top) too. Update 20170107: I've made some changes to the design: * Shortened the shaft so a thumbscrew can be used * Added seating for the spring * Lengthened the lip to hold narrower glass The mount works great, fits perfectly, and holds the bed nicely with no play. The only thing left to test is how strong the ABS will be at holding a 110C bed inside a 70C chamber. Update 20170108: I've added three new versions of the bed piece: * One with an M4x5x5mm metal insert that can be push-fitted into the hole on top, allowing for an M4 screw to clamp the glass cap to the bed piece * A version with a small 2mm hole for a 3mm plastic or wood screw * A version with a 3mm hole and an M3 nut holder on the bottom of the shaft for an M3 screw I've also added a second glass cap with a thicker end for holding thinner plates (like a 3mm plate). Update 20130309: I was using 35mm M3 screws, but they tended to rotate inside the piece sometimes, making bed leveling harder than it should be. I found hexagon head bolts M3x35mm on Blej and redesigned the bed piece to take them. Print Settings: * Printer: self-made * Rafts: Doesn't Matter * Supports: Yes * Resolution: 0.15-0.25 * Infill: 50% * Notes: The parts are strongest when laid down in STL, so you'll need to use support for the "8mm shaft" piece. Post-Printing: 1. Attach a "carriage piece" to your TEHNOLOGIKA bed so that the hole aligns with the hole in the bed. 2. Add a spring over the hole (use the original springs that came with M150's bed). 3. Select your "bed piece" depending on how you plan to attach the glass cap and place it in the carriage piece. 4. Put an M3 screw (min length 25mm, max length 35mm, ideal 30mm) through both pieces. 5. Screw in the M3 nut on the bottom of the carriage piece or use thumb nuts that came with M150 or print one from Thingiverse. 6. Add a glass cap (use the flat glass cap piece if your bed is 4mm or thinner, and the "glass cap thinner bed" piece if it's thicker). 7. Fasten the glass cap to the bed piece using the selected method (M4 screw for metal insert, M3 screw for self-tapping screws or 3mm plastic/wood screw). Repeat this process three times. Optionally, you can "fix" the M3 screw by: * Using a nut (ideally nyloc) and securing it in place if your screw has threads all the way through. * Mixing ABS waste with acetone to create a thick paste, filling the top hole where the M3 head is completely while the M3 head is in. Leave the mixture to dry for 24 hours. This will secure the M3 screw tightly and prevent it from rotating. Even without "fixing" the M3 screw, you only need to hold it by hand while fastening the bottom nut for the first time. Once you tighten the spring, friction will be enough to hold it in place and prevent rotation. How I Designed This: I designed this using Onshape, and the source is available here (create an account on Onshape to edit, copy, or export the parts).