2DIK Dummy

thingiverse

There is no legit 2DIK (or 2DS) flashlight to be found on the international market, especially not as a dummy and for a reasonable price. So took that as a challenge and created my very own 2DIK flashlight dummy. The dummy is camable of being used as storage compartment or battery compartment, the cable can be brought through the switch connector or the rubber button cap. It locked by a twist of about 5° of the front cap. Under this link you can finde some additional pictures: http://steklovata.blogspot.com/2012/12/steklovatastuff-1-zenit-lantern-2dik.html All parts are designed to be printed directly (please watch the orientation on the bed). To get best results i reccommend to put the biggest and flattest surface to the bed. Additionally to the printed components you need the following parts: - 1x old LED (5mm diameter) as a dummy, cut the legs of and sand the backside as flush as possible - 1x 3.5mm audio jack (outer diameter of nut <8mm) -> to connect dummy switch - 1x rubber button pad (diameter 14mm) - 1x cylinder head screw (head diameter 8,5mm) -> used for optics on top of the mount - 1x hex head screw, M5x35 -> for the locking mechanism (RIS) - 1x knurled nut (diameter 20mm) -> for the locking mechanism (RIS) - 1x M2x3mm set screw -> for optics on the bottom lid - 3,5mm audio cable -> to connect the switch to the lamp - shrink tube, black -> to make the switch and cable-connection a bit more smooth - 2mm plexi glass lense (diameter 41mm, thickness 2mm) For best results print the main body and the front lid so that the z-seam is on the upper side of the lamp (facing to the mount). Only for the bottom lid has support to be used (otherwise the sunken area for the audio jack collapses). Assembly instructions: - Print all parts one time, all parts black, the reflector in silver and the LED back cap in yellow - screw the audo jack in the back lid - screw in the set screw in the small hole of the back lid (i reccommend to thread the hole before screwing in the set screw to avoid breaking the lid) - glue the button cap in the back lid and fix the audijack on this way to prevent loosing or breaking ot the lid - cut down the cylinder head screw to fit the hole of the RIS block and glue it in - put together the main body with the RIS block and the back lid. These parts are designed (and if you printed well enough) to have a press-fit. Usually there is no glue needed to hold these in place but you could fix them by using glue (higher durability) - cut out a 41mm lense of a 2mm sheet of plexiglass, put it in the front lid - stick the old LED in the reflector and glue the yellow cap onto the LED and reflector - put the reflector-assembly inside the front lid (some glue for fixation can be helpflu but is not necessary) - put the M5 screw in the RIS block (its head should fit wight into the cutout), put on the RIS lock (the slightly smaler tip should face in direction of the lamp body) and the bushing in the lock. Finally screw on the knurled nut - slide the front lid on the main body and lock it in place - put on some shrinking tube on the 3,5mm audio cable (as much as you are comfortable with to meet your optical requirement) and glue the cable in the switch - put some shrinking tube on the switch for a better surface apperance Congratulations, you have made a 2DIK lamp dummy on your own!