+26mm Z Mod for Prusa MK2S, 2.5 & MK3

thingiverse

Firmware download (.hex for easy flashing): https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oHYlpksgzbGCRKHOrl9qC4OLmhx7LOPO/view?usp=sharing The unused area above the motors was previously untouched. Utilize this entire printability by raising Z motors and rods to access this new printing space. These 3D models, edits from Prusa Research labeled "z-axis-top," "z-axis-bottom," "nozzle-fan," and "Spool-holder," are credited to them for their original designs. You will need: * These three 3D prints * An alan key * Zip ties * Twenty minutes MK2S: On the back of the extruder, there is a long screw holding an arm that keeps cables up. I replaced both with two zip ties. Move wires as close to the center and as low as possible, then apply the zip tie. Make sure it's not too low that it hits a print. It may take a few tries/zip ties to get this right. The goal is to keep wires from colliding with the top of the frame as much as you can. Remove the lower screw holding the power supply from the frame. MK3 (and MK2.5): The entire back plate must be removed, which will result in damage. Unscrew and remove any zip ties except those holding linear bearings on the upper rod; do not cut them. Grab the cables and pull them back tight, close to the center and lower, then apply a zip tie. It may take a few tries/zip ties to get this right. The filament sensor didn't work for me, so I tied it back. There appears to be enough space to have those wires without hitting the frame if you still need it. Both: * Remove the original top and bottom 3D printed parts and rods * Attach 3D printed bottom parts to the frame * Attach motors to those bottom prints * Slide rods into the X carriage and into the bottom prints * Attach top prints to the frame and rods * For MK3, remove the old fan duct and replace it with a trimmed version * Attach the new Spool holder; it is thinner and required for this mod if you want to still use a frame-mounted spool holder * Tape the cables leading to the extruder to the frame so they point up. Refer to images for reference. Fin! If you find this useful, tips are always welcome. Notes: * No effect on print quality; tested on an MK2S and two MK3's. Spool holders (imaged) and other things were printed after applying the mod. * You may set max Z height in slicer to 226mm (MK2S/2.5) or 236mm (MK3) and will print normally in this new area. * Mesh bed level and z-calibrate work as normal (see video) * If you can mesh bed level after applying this mod, it's a success. If not, make sure the X carriage is not tilted so it can reach all bed points. Straighten by hand or Z calibrate, then it will mesh bed level ok. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CyVrWQxP9kc&feature=youtu.be