24V PSU Enclosure For 3D Printer Made For My CR-10

cults3d

This is for running an external 24v power supply with 12v and 5v rails and a better fan on board. It has IEC320 input with fuse and switch as well as an outlet for the mains voltage heated bed I switched my CR-10 S5 to. This has been such a huge performance improvement! This comes with a replacement port to let you use a 4 pin connector for 5v and 12v and an XT-60 for the 24v. On mine I ran 14AWG for the 24v and 18AWG for 5 and 12v. Only though you need is a 24v hotend and blower fan, and lots of time to rewire. #Complete BOM with mains voltage bed: This is from amazon.com and exactly what I bought. 24v to 5v converter 24v to 12v converter 24v 15a Slim PSU 60mm Noctua Fan to replace the PSU fan, it's 12v 4 pin connnectors XT60 Connectors [Ender3 Hotend 24v}(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TZHB29Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) 120v 750 watt bed heater SSR to run bed heater IEC320 Module Socket for heated bed Cord for heated bed Now, to wire the bed you use the SSR to take the signal from the DC to the old bed heater and switch the AC to the new heater. I mounted mine on the aluminum rail of the machine near the back corner. Wire the cord for the bed with the hot going through the SSR. Neutral connects to the heater directly and ground to the frame of the printer. It's good practice to ground the bed as well. This is being used with my SKR and Raspberry Pi internal mod (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4130769) for ultimate control and ease. #Don't die! Unplug the supply! Always unplug your machine from the wall when working on the electronics. Make sure all connections are fused and switched for safety. Use the right size wires! 16 AWG is plenty for the 750 watt bed. #THANK YOU!