215 Hopper FPV

thingiverse

Building from my previously published 215 Hopper design, I created the 215 Hopper FPV. This new model boasts significant durability enhancements, enabling it to withstand heavy grounding without sustaining terminal damage - a critical feature for FPV enthusiasts, especially during the learning phase. I won't claim that it matches the ruggedness of a carbon plate design, but I'm now confident that this will be a suitable option for those looking to build from scratch. The camera pod is arguably the least durable component of the design; however, my first printed unit has served its purpose, protecting the flight cam. Occasionally, in particularly awkward crashes, the camera may pop out (I'm still unsure how exactly this occurs), so always verify before departing the crash site. I do intend to upgrade the camera mounting at some point, and it will be documented once that happens. My blog entry about this release is available here: http://andrewtaylor.net.au/2016/07/03/215-hopper-fpv-rebuild. Another relevant blog post containing build tips for the original 215 Hopper can be found at: https://andrewtaylor.net.au/2016/03/26/215-hopper-build/. The full history of the 215 Hopper is documented here: https://andrewtaylor.net.au/category/215-hopper/. Feel free to order the required PCB (215H_PDB Rev 2.brd) from any fab shop. I find the value offered by http://dangerousprototypes.com/store/pcbs particularly appealing, especially for a board of this size. Print Settings: Supports: Yes Resolution: 0.15mm Infill: 30% Notes: All 3D printed parts are printed in ABS with a 30% infill, 3 outlines, 3 solid bottom layers, and 4 solid top layers. Colour is not crucial but I find it looks best when the frame parts are a bright colour, as seen here in orange and the accessory parts are black. Post-Printing: Tidy up If your printer is well-calibrated, minimal post-processing will be required. I usually take the back edge of a razor blade to scrape all my edges, smoothing them out and removing any over-extrusion that has occurred at the bed level. This can even involve removing visible layers from 3D contoured parts such as the vTx pod and camera housing. I also use a piece of silky cloth to apply acetone to the visible surfaces, resulting in a smooth, clean appearance. Holes Holes are intentionally left oversize in CAD, rather than making allowances for fitment. This means that wherever there is a fastener hole, you should drill them out for a nice fit - 2mm for M2's, 3mm for M3's, and 5mm where the aluminium standoffs are used. I find that using a drill bit with the tip ground flat is the easiest approach to ensure a clean hole. Frame Sides Tight fits are required in two areas: the lobes on the top and bottom of the frame sides which snap into the top and bottom plates. If they won't sit in place, shave down the joining faces between the tube clamps and frame sides. The lobes themselves may also need to be tidied up if they won't fit into the plates in isolation. Solvent welding Whilst not strictly necessary, I solvent welded the 3 parts of the camera mount together (parts 131, 132, and 133). Durability has exceeded my expectations, so that is probably a worthwhile step to take. Bill Of Materials The 215 Hopper FPV is designed around a fairly specific set of components. This is not to say that other parts won't work on the frame but rather that the positions and space allocation work best with what I have used. My recommended build uses: DYS 1806-2300kV motors 18A ZTW 18A Spider series Opto ESC's Naze32 Rev 6 25mm Plastic housing FPV camera such as the HS117 or HS1189 Lumineer TX5G8 Pro power switch vTx FrSky X4R-SB receiver Pololu 5v converter 5cm 90° bulkhead SMA extension 12mm x 10mm x 500mm carbon fibre tube You will also need the following fasteners: 18x M3x15 Round threaded standoff 2x M3x20 Round threaded standoff 40x M3x8 Button head socket screws 4x M3x10 Nylon screws 8x M3 Nylon nuts