20mm Conduit 9-way connector for garden net/frost cover frame/trellis

thingiverse

DO NOT USE THIS FOR ELECTRICAL PURPOSES, IF YOU USE THE BOLT HOLES, BOLTS WILL GO THROUGH THE WIRING. THIS IS FOR GARDENING PURPOSES ONLY SUCH AS TRELLISES/FROST COVERS, BIRD NETTING, HOOP HOUSES, ETC. This is my (perhaps insane, but still not biggest) 9 way connector for joining 20mm electrical conduit parts to form a frame for netting/frost covering garden sections... or maybe helping to build fanciful two and three-dimensional trellises. By the way, if you're looking for a 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 or even 10-way connector, have a look here: 1- Way "Stake styled" Anchor found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6228095 1-Way "Screw down" anchor found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6228135 2-Way "Straight" Connector: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6187349 2-Way "Right-Angle" Connector: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6188056 3-Way "Y" Connector: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6181085 3-Way "T" Connector: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6163480 4-Way Cross Connector: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6163584 5-Way Connector: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6181104 6-Way Connector: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6181111 7-Way Connector: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6187567 8-Way Connector: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6167506 Half 8-Way Connector: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6195584 Quarter 8-Way Connector: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6196723 10-Way Connector here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6182651 Now this is a serious connector, and it needs some hefty infill (say 50% or more) and additional boundary layers for maximum strength. The commercially-made joining pieces for these electrical conduit pieces.... are not designed for load-bearing applications nor the stresses of bent hoop structures. I made this glorified beyond-asterisk-styled connector so that it can be used (with bending the limbs) to form a dome/gazebo like structure... or join hoop-house sections in all manner of directions and ways. This is particularly good for linking frames that protect long/narrow beds, to form chains/wings going off at odd angles. There are holes to use 45mm M4 bolts to both lock the conduit inside the sockets, as well as add some compressive force to squeeze the print layers together. Instructions for most-efficient drilling practices, can be found in the post-printing section. WHY DO THESE CONNECTORS WORK IN ONLY ONE PLANE? Since my first-generation 2/3 plane connectors broke due to FDM layer separation issues, all the connectors in this series are printed so all connectors extend out on one plane, meaning that FDM printers are more than capable of building these very strongly while lowering the risk of snapping bits off. To build structures on multiple planes, you have two options: 1. Bend the conduit to form domes, hoops, arches, or really rounded corners. 2. I use multiple offset T-connectors, rotated to connect things in whatever missing plane my parts don't point in. Of course, you can rotate the other connectors too. :-) If you're worried about these connectors vulnerability to UV/water, I recommend using PETG/ABS or whatever outdoor suited filament of your choice... and taping the connectors to block UV rays once the frame is assembled and in place. I used PETG and protecting it with tape works. Tape also has the advantage of being able to smooth any protruding bolt holes to reduce net snagging. Something painting in UV-protective finishes can't to... :-) Frankly, I'm still in the testing phase, but I'd love feedback, nothing has snapped or otherwise failed me so far, but I'm only most of the way through my first couple of seasons. I'd love to see pictures of the structures you can make. Larger connectors such as this are serious printing projects. Expect a little over a day worth of print time on Prusa MK3S styled printers, and maybe half a 1KG spool (depending on your print settings) if you want serious strength from this connector.