2-in-1 UltraCompact HICtop Bowden Mount

thingiverse

My Goal is to Build a Printer that's Fast, Accurate, and Quiet, with Cool Features like Personalization. When I was Searching for Ways to Achieve this on this Site, I Was Disappointed by All the Large Hanging Extruders, Fans, and Ducts That Cause Nozzle Vibrations and Printing Inaccuracies at Decent Speeds. Therefore, I Set Out to Create the UltraCompact MMendel Mount. This Design Cools Both the E3D and the Extrusion with a Single 30mm Fan, Including a Nameplate and Four Versions. If You Use Mine (MMendel), I'll Be Honored; However, I've Included a Blank Plate So You Can Easily Add Text to It and Use Your Own. The Total Weight of Everything, Including Bolts, Is 93.75g for the Half Size and 90.75g for the Micro, Compared to Factory (441.8g) I Saved 348.05g, and Shaved Off 78.8% of the Weight. To Show That I've Had No Cooling Issues, I Provided a Picture of My Last Completed Print, Thing 81747, Post-Processed with Various Paints. To Complete This Build, You Will Need Two 4x40mm Socket Head Cap Screws and Two 4mm Nuts. (Socket Screw Measured from Base of Bolt, Overall Bolt Length Is ~43mm) Citations List: HICtop Mounted Y Axis Switch, Two Point Attach: Created by Me. HICtop Z Axis Backlash Eliminator: Created by Me. Misumi Style Corner Bracket: Thing 13949. Greg Wade Reloaded: Thing 18379. Skulltruder: Thing 49220. Z Axis Knob: Thing 3234. HICtop Lead Screw Guide: Thing 1166444. Print Settings: Printer Brand: RepRap Printer: HICtop Prusa i3 Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: 0.1mm Infill: 90% Notes: I Prefer to Use Mostly Solid Parts for Anything That Holds Accuracy on My Printer; However, I Don't See Any Reason That ~25% Wouldn't Work Just as Well. This Design Allows the X-Axis Belt Mount to Be Bolted Together with a Nut, and Not Just Tightened into Plastic. (I Didn't Trust the Previous Design, and My Guess Was Later Right When It Came Apart Mid Print.) *I Have Included the Full Base into the Files; However, I Would Expect It to Melt at the Bottom If Used Due to the Fact That It Is So Close to the Heater Block. This File Is Only Provided to Allow for Modification If Desired. Post-Printing: Be Sure to Remove Internal Brims If Used as They Will Inhibit Airflow. How I Designed This: Triangles Are Supportless I Have Worked in Additive Manufacturing for Almost 2 Years Now, and I Believe the Power Lies in the Triangle. Triangles Allow for Passages That Can Be Constructed with No Supports to Be Removed. This Concept Is How I Built the Support-Less Fan Shroud That Channels Air with Two Direction Changes. The Concept of Air Splitting Has Always Been Fascinating to Me Ever Since I Began Work Building a Full-Size Hovercraft in High School. Air Flows Right, Down, Then Down and Right to Cool the Nozzle at a Precise Point. Although Blurry, This Shows the Design of the Triangles That Allow for Support-Less Airflow.