160 CM LONG ender 3 pro extension (still work in progress)

thingiverse

This is a prototype version of an ender 3 pro extended to be 1600mm long and 930mm wide (of course you can change the size by reducing or adding length to your profiles and belts). It has a build area of 1200mm+, 570mm, 160mm+, ( Y-X-Z) and uses 2 additional motors in y and z directions (wired in parallel) to achieve a stable and precise motion in each axis. Materials: 1-2kg of 3d printer plastic (PLA, PETG etc), extra steppers (one with round shaft for Z axis and one with pulley for Y axis), (75) M5x8 flathead screws, (75) t-nuts, (4) 1500mm 2040 aluminium profiles, (4) 1000mm 2040 profiles, (4) 1000mm 2020 profiles, (2) 500mm 2020 profiles, (8) 5x12x4mm bearings (inner-outer-width), extra z threaded rod with nut and coupler, (25) friction M5 nuts (nylon nuts), (8) roller V-slot wheels), (4) flathead M5x30 screws, 20 meters of stepper motor wire, (or wire with 4 wires inside it), Ender 3 pro to use components from, (3) 2000mm belts, stepper motor connectors for the new wires (so they can connect the motors to the board). You will also need 4 ikea 55x55cm tables called "Lack" or any other table/tables if you want it to be elevated for easier use. The build area can be a mirror, glassheet etc but has to be 150-170cm long, and 40-75 cm wide. Tools: Drill M5 tap 4.5mm drillbit (used before tapping) (tools that come with the ender 3 pro from factory) Soldering iron Other things: In the slicer, you want to go to MACHINE SETTINGS, and add the " M211 S0; disable end stops " in the "START G-code". This makes the machine able to go further than the ender 3 is originally supposed to be able to go. If you dont do this the machine is basically useless. It's good to know how the ender 3 pro board works, where to attach the outputs etc.. !!VERY IMPORTANT!! MAKE SURE YOU SWITCH THE 2 MIDDLE WIRES OF THE STEPPER MOTOR WIRE BEFORE CONNECTING IT TO THE BOARD, OTHERWISE THE BOARD WILL BLOW UP! For the machine assembly make sure everything is square, evenly spaced and moves smoothly along the profiles. Assemble everything on a straight surface to insure the frame is perfectly square. Any misaligned parts of the printer over 0.1mm will result in unacceptable print quality so therefore its very important to do it properly. (The spacers should be printed with ~0.16mm layer height) Creds to: 1) Properprinting (youtube) for inspiring me to make the first prototype of this machine and later turn it into this. 2) Max Darkdog (thingiverse), for the cablechain. I modified it a bit so thats why its experimental. But the original design is by Max Darkdog. This is just a protoype, nothing is guaranteed to work or be SAFE so do this at YOUR OWN RISK. I dont take any responsibility for safety or malfunction of the machine, again do this at your own risk. It's still a working progress, feel free to make remixes and I'll post the last parts (for the bed leveling) soon! You might also need a "control box" that you connect all the wires to, that will also be published on my profile soon! Price: ~250 dollar printer ~400-500 dollars of upgrades