14th doctor sonic screwdriver (screen accurate)

14th doctor sonic screwdriver (screen accurate)

thingiverse

This is my take on a screen accurate 14th doctor's sonic screwdriveroriginally based on this model https://www.printables.com/model/532412-14th-doctors-sonic-screwdriver-wipi ended up remodeling most of the parts, but still gotta give credit where credit is due.my version is scaled based on prop concept art in an issue of the doctor who magazinehttps://tardis.fandom.com/wiki/Fourteenth_Doctor%27s_sonic_screwdriver/Gallerythe model works just fine without electronics, but i have also designed this to accommodate some electronics. in my case i stole the guts from a 12th doctors sonic screwdriver toy. i swapped the original slide dpdt switch for a momentary switch and an spdt flag switch so switch between the 2 modes. the flag switch is pretty heavily modified to fit into the pommel, which is activated by rotating the dial ring.printing. the dial rings have a ball detent ratchet mechanism in them both to keep things in place, but also to make a nice little clicki printed this on an elegoo mars 2 pro, using anycubic clear plant based resin. havent tested it with other resins or on an fdm printer. I printed everything in the vertical orientation, except the pommel, and the handle base b, which was printed upside-down. this was dont to preserve the visible surface details and to avoid putting supports on the parts that screw together. assemblyfor the most part its pretty straight forward. use the exploded model picture as a guide. most of the parts simply screw together. in the pommel, i have put 2 holes, these are to house 2 6.35mm steel balls and a 5.6mm diameter spring each. the spring must be long enough to push the bearings into the detents of the dial rings. essentially in each hole goes ball-spring-ball. i found the best way to install them is to start with the upper ring first. place a ball in one side, put the spring in through the opposite side, then put the second ball onto the open end of the spring. then you have to compress the spring by pressing the balls into the hole while pushing the dial ring down over the balls. for me, left hand holds the balls in, right hand pushes ring down. its a bit tricky but not to bad with some practice. be careful not to let the ball launch out and hit something fragile like your eyes or tv. once the top ring is on, place the balls and spring into the lower hole, only this time youll be pushing both rings down. now you have a fun clicky thing! you may want to sand the outer part of the claws down to be smooth before installing them, i found that if you dont it ma catch on the handle while the mechanism is going in and out, and it can result in bits chipping off of the handle A.next install the claws. again pretty easy, line the hole at the bottom of the claw with the holes in the arms of the cage structure. make sure the each claw is hugging an arm. then take a claw pin and push it through the hole, from left to right, so that the tab on the claw pin lines up with the little notch that is just to the left of each arm. see the picture for details. press the tab into the notch. it should be a tight fit. you dont want it to rotate while the claw is rotating otherwise itll cause things to get stuck and it will be hard to fix. not impossible, but hard. once all 4 claws are in place, turn the whole thing upside down, place the plunger into the hole from the bottom so that the flat side is facing up. then put in a spring that is anywhere from 6 to 11mm in diameter. you want a fairly strong spring, but not too stron that itll start breaking things. then you have to compress the spring using the spring base, and rotate it into the bottom of the cage structure to lock the spring in place. this also gives you a little bit of control over the tension of the spring. next slide the sonic core in from the top side of the claw structure. (if you want you can sintall the top emitter first, but then youll have to take the spring out and put the core in from the bottom.)now you can slide the claw/cage structure/sonic core unit into the Handle A from the top. make sure the slot in the cage is lines up with the slot in the front of the handle, so that you can put the button in later.screw the rest of the parts together. install the top emitter at the top of the cage structure. the indents on the emitter line up with the arms of the cage. (you could install the blue core into the top emitter first, and glue them together, this makes lining things up a bit more tricky but still very doable. ) glue the top emitter to the cage structureslide the blue core into the top emitter and glue it to the top emitter, glue together so that the core sits close to the bottom of the emitter when the sonic is in the closed position. double check your alignment because you want to make sure the sonic can open and close fully when glued. glue the blue light tip at the top of the emitter install the slide button into the slot at the front of the cage structure install the little blue roundals into the holes in the sonic coreand you are done!if you want to install electronics, youll want to use really thin with to solder to some little leds that will fit into the tips of the claws. make sure the wires are long enough to comfortably reach into the hollow part of the Handle C part. youll also want to put an led into the sonic core. there is enough space and some handy groves to guide the wires in a way that still lets the parts move. Handle c has a hollow space JUST big enough to fit the 12 doctors sonic's circuit board, speaker, 3 very tiny 1.5v button cell batteries, and a mess of wires. i also modified a flag switch to sit in the base of the pommel, and with that and a momentary button, i made it so the rings switch the modes and the putton activates the sonic. the button also goes into the square on the cage structure its pretty tricky to get everything in without breaking the wire lol admittedly i was working with stuff i have lying around and am bad at soldering. if youve got a bit of 3d modeling skills and are a decent electronics person, in sure you could improve on my design fairly easily. good luck!

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