12V Ozone Generator

prusaprinters

<p>This is a housing/enclosure for a 12V ozone generator.</p> <p>Ozone kills viruses and bacteria. It also removes bad odours like cigarette smells and sweat from boots, cars, leather jackets etc. It is also bad to breathe so this should be used when the area is clear of living creatures. Air the room out for 5 or more hours after you've used an ozone generator</p> <p>My mini ozone generator came from an an online store and is very similar to <a href="https://www.ebay.ca/itm/DC-12V-Ozone-Generator-Machine-Air-Purifier-Odor-Deodorizer-Sterilizer-50m-HcBB/133659961626?hash=item1f1ec1291a">this one</a>. It has a high voltage transformer in an encapsulated plastic enclosure and a ceramic plate with electrodes that generate plasma that in turn generates Ozone from the oxygen in the air.</p> <p>The main part is a 50mm OD PVC pipe from a hardware shop, you can print this if you don't have any handy, mine was 75mm long but it can be shorter.</p> <p>The endcap is where the air and ozone exit the device, a <a href="https://www.amazon.ca/GDSTIME-Brushless-Cooling-North-Bridge/dp/B08B5Z5NJ6/?tag=thingiverse09-20">fan</a> housing blows air from the other end and two suspension discs for the electronics keep the high voltage and plasma sheet stable in the middle. The fan is a 40x20mm fan that runs off 12V, same as the ozone generator</p> <p>I made two versions of the suspension discs that hold the high voltage transformer and the ceramic plasma plate, one is just the disc, you will need two of these. The other version has the two disks with arms that adjust the spacing. These work a bit easier, you have to use some glue on the end of the arms where they engage each other but they do form a more substantial frame to hold everything in place.</p> <p>The design is such that all the electronics is upwind so the ozone, which is corrosive to metals, doesn't blow over any electronics (fan).</p> <p>If you use the USB boost converter (search for MT3608 available online for about $2) and don't want to install it inside the tube, then you may prefer the "Fan Shroud USB" because it has a pocket for the PCB. Note that some boards are longer and won't fit, these are the boards without the USB connector and they have rounded corners. This part will need to be printed with the flat outside end face down and with supports for the pocket. My support material came out easily by just stabbing into it with long nosed pliers and pulling it out.</p> <p>The lid has vent holes to be positioned above the coil and IC. The small protrusion is supposed to hold the board down by pushing on the pot, if your printer leaves a blob of material on it then just file it off.</p> <h3>Print Settings</h3> <p><strong>Printer Brand:</strong></p> <p>Creality</p> <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong> <div><p>Ender 3</p></div> <p><strong>Rafts:</strong></p> <p>No</p> <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong> <div><p>No</p></div> <p><strong>Resolution:</strong></p> <p>.2</p> <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong> <div><p>20</p></div> <p><strong>Filament:</strong> Amz PLA Blue</p> <p><br/> <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong></p> </p><div><p>All parts should be printed flat side down. No support needed and the large flat side shouldn't need any rafts or a brim. Use a glue stick or whatever you usually use.</p></div> Post-Printing ============= <p><strong>Build and use</strong></p> <div><p>No screws, just glue (epoxy or CA glue).</p> I filed the 4 little bumps off one end of the suspension frame because it was tight enough inside the pipe to be held by just the bumps on the fan end of the frame. If your pipe ID is large then I suggest hot-melt to hold it in place in the tube. <p>I added a power socket at the fan end for 12V from a car cigarette lighter or wall wart so my tube was made longer to make space. If you want to add a buck regulator for a laptop power supply or a boost converter for a USB power supply then 75mm should be enough space.</p> <p>No need for a ON LED, you can smell when it's running and can likely hear the fan running. You shouldn't be looking at it when it's ON anyway, you should be somewhere else.</p> <p>Watch the wires don't get caught in the fan.</p> <p>Keep the high voltage parts away from anything as much as possible. These are VERY high voltages. Keep the glue away from the high voltage electrodes</p> <p>Power consumption is about 300mA for the converter and 100mA for the fan. Easiest is to use 12V directly but a phone power bank with a boost circuit should be fine too. Mine draws 1.2A from a USB supply when powering a MT3608 boost converter (MT3608 can supply an output current of 2A and runs warmish when powering my Ozone Generator and fan).</p> <p>For the boost converter search for "MT3608" from one of the many online electronics modules suppliers. Just be warned, it takes a lot of turns of the trimming pot to get the module voltage to start changing. Here’s a <a href="https://youtu.be/yD7fMylYgXw">video</a> on adjusting it without damaging it. There are a few other enclosures on Thingiverse for the MT3608, do a <a href="/tag:mt3608">search</a> to see if you can find one you prefer. I have one for my <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4734662">Laser engraver ring of LEDs</a>. Here's an <a href="https://www.instructables.com/DC-DC-Boost-Converter-MT3608/">Instructable for the MT3608</a></p> <p>Don't leave it unattended where it may cause a fire, put it on a fireproof base and use a fuse. The fan will keep everything cool enough normally.</p> <p><strong>High voltage wires stay inside the frame. Power supply leads are outside the frame.</strong></p> <p><strong>Keep glue away from the electrodes, thats where the plasma will be and it is hot. Manage long wires by keeping them away from the plasma area</strong></p> </div></p></p></p> Category: Household