12V Ozone Generator

thingiverse

This is a housing/enclosure for a 12V ozone generator. Ozone kills viruses and bacteria. It also removes bad odours like cigarette smells and sweat from boots, cars, leather jackets etc. It is also bad to breathe so this should be used when the area is clear of living creatures. Air the room out for 5 or more hours after you've used an ozone generator My mini ozone generator came from an an online store and is very similar to [this one](https://www.ebay.ca/itm/DC-12V-Ozone-Generator-Machine-Air-Purifier-Odor-Deodorizer-Sterilizer-50m-HcBB/133659961626?hash=item1f1ec1291a). It has a high voltage transformer in an encapsulated plastic enclosure and a ceramic plate with electrodes that generate plasma that in turn generates Ozone from the oxygen in the air. The main part is a 50mm OD PVC pipe from a hardware shop, you can print this if you don't have any handy, mine was 75mm long but it can be shorter. The endcap is where the air and ozone exit the device, a [fan](https://www.amazon.ca/GDSTIME-Brushless-Cooling-North-Bridge/dp/B08B5Z5NJ6/) housing blows air from the other end and two suspension discs for the electronics keep the high voltage and plasma sheet stable in the middle. The fan is a 40x20mm fan that runs off 12V, same as the ozone generator I made two versions of the suspension discs that hold the high voltage transformer and the ceramic plasma plate, one is just the disc, you will need two of these. The other version has the two disks with arms that adjust the spacing. These work a bit easier, you have to use some glue on the end of the arms where they engage each other but they do form a more substantial frame to hold everything in place. The design is such that all the electronics is upwind so the ozone, which is corrosive to metals, doesn't blow over any electronics (fan). If you use the USB boost converter (search for MT3608 available online for about $2) and don't want to install it inside the tube, then you may prefer the "Fan Shroud USB" because it has a pocket for the PCB. Note that some boards are longer and won't fit, these are the boards without the USB connector and they have rounded corners. This part will need to be printed with the flat outside end face down and with supports for the pocket. My support material came out easily by just stabbing into it with long nosed pliers and pulling it out. The lid has vent holes to be positioned above the coil and IC. The small protrusion is supposed to hold the board down by pushing on the pot, if your printer leaves a blob of material on it then just file it off.