12mm Dove Tail to Picatinny Rail Adapter, No Droop, 75mm

thingiverse

I added a 95mm rail to my Hatsan, with 40mm screw spacing, using the first and fourth (last) screw hole on top for mounting. Additionally, I incorporated channels cross-wise along the mid rail, enabling zip ties as an alternative to hardware. These zip ties can be used to secure the rail to the weapon, suitable for lighter applications such as modding a Nerf gun. Innovations to address scope stabilization are critical due to the spring piston rifle's violent recoil. My Hatsan 125 Sniper is a prime example, using a 12mm Dove Tail mount, but even with added scope stops, I noticed scope ring mounts would move forward. By converting the 12mm dove tail to a Picatinny rail, optics stability can be improved. This design does not compensate for barrel droop by angling the plane of the high rail, making it a straightforward application. I have placed the screw holes on my Hatsan 125 in line with the back and third from the back screw positions, maintaining a consistent 31mm spacing between screws. Even with just one screw, the setup appears stable; let me know if you require a different screw pattern. As I've had some durability concerns given the rifle's performance – two scopes have been crushed by the spring action already – I'll monitor for any issues that may arise from this adaptation. There's also the possibility of lengthening it to achieve the optimal 100-120mm long mount, though my current PrintrBro is limited to printing up to 100mm in length until I acquire some longer rods. Instead of relying on a pre-existing rail pattern, I accessed the original drawing and reconstructed the design using Solidworks to better understand its specifications. To produce this unit, I utilized my 3D printer, printing it upside down in PLA material, using Cura for slicing and Repetier for coding execution. Dealing with the 90-degree overhangs on the edges presented a challenge due to print angle limitations; however, the final outcome was still functional albeit a bit marginal. To improve future prints, I'm considering slight adjustments, such as removing some material at the corner points to prevent excessive overhang and simplify the printing process. While there might be a minor need for touch-ups using a Dremel tool to finalize any print errors, the initial setup turned out surprisingly good with minimal work required, especially when considering potential first-time design flaws that usually arise from 3D printing.