110 Film Development Reel -v2 (Jobo-fit)

prusaprinters

<p>This is completely new version!<br><br>I shoot and home-develop a lot of different film formats, and none of the 110 film development reel solutions really did it for me, so I started tinkering around, and this is my latest - ALL NEW - design, with some nice improvements based on feedback from others, and my own usage. If you are interested in the previous version, check out my profile. I've left it there for reference.</p><p>Obviously this is being offered on here so that people can make one for themselves (if you do, please let me know!), but if you would like me to print one for you, I'd be happy to for a reasonable price. I have an Etsy shop setup to take orders. Here's a link:<br><a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/FilmStuffLab/">https://www.etsy.com/shop/FilmStuffLab/</a></p><p>To see actual prints of my design, check out the “Makes” tab (I print basically everything I design.)<br>&nbsp;</p><h4><strong>Main features of this new version</strong></h4><p>The main things setting this version apart from the older one (aside from it being a completely new object/design) are:</p><ul><li>I added a <strong>twist-lock</strong> to it, so it works/feels a little like other plastic reels out there, which will help with film removal after developing, and potentially make film easier to load. I normally just feed the film in, but some people say they would like to twist-walk the film into the reel (like a Paterson), and this seems like it will make that possible.</li><li>I made <strong>shorter ribs</strong> that the film travels on. This will help in with loading the film because there will be less surface-area friction, and also potentially aids in chemical flow (though I had zero issues with that in the first version).</li><li>I added a little ridge at the spiral opening, to hopefully reduce the possibility of film crawl-back while developing. Crawl-back happened to me exactly 2 times in the past year or more of using these reels, but I thought adding this might reduce that risk a bit.</li><li>I added a model for a <strong>Jo-spacer</strong> that is useful for some Jobo center cores that don't have that bump-ribbing at the base of the core (which caused some of the 110 reels to spin freely, due to them being so short). This spacer is a quick and easy print, and only needed for some situations, but I thought I'd include it for the people who need it.</li></ul><h4><br><strong>Print instructions</strong></h4><p><br><strong>Printer:</strong> MakerFarm Pegasus 10</p><p><strong>Rafts:</strong> None</p><p><strong>Supports:</strong> None</p><p><strong>Resolution:</strong> 0.2mm</p><p><strong>Print Speed:</strong> 40-50mm/sec</p><p><strong>Infill:</strong> 20%</p><p><strong>Filament:</strong> Any PLA (I used GST3D)</p><p><strong>Nozzle temp:</strong> 205°C</p><p><strong>Bed temp:</strong> 55°C</p><p><strong>Notes:</strong><br>Brim: If you find your print warping/curling at all, a brim will help. I found a brim wasn't necessary, but your situation might be different<br>Jo-Spacer: If you print the spacer, you can go really light on the infill without any problem. I'd say 10-15% would be plenty. I printed it at 13% infill and it was great</p><p><strong>Post-Printing</strong><br>Nothing special for post-printing. Just basic removal of the brim (if used). Also, depending on your printer's tolerances, the center hole may be a perfect fit for the Paterson center core rod, or it may need some minor sanding. All printers tolerances are slightly different in my experience</p>