z wobble 3d models

My previous design had an issue, where the homing could fail violently, because the carriage, which has the thing that triggers the endstop, would stop at the bed, while the wobble fix would continue to go down until it was tightly screwed against...

... with a fresh spin. ...I managed to snap both original pieces in two while attempting to put them together. So I turned the print orientation by 90 degrees, and that gave me significantly better stability in the crucial areas around the z-axis.

An adjustment to Robscar's design that adds a bit more material for rigidity and allows for clipping from the side onto the z axis guide posts so no frame disassembly is required, just have to detach threaded rod and slide into place. ...Moved screw...

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I'm excited to see what remixes we can come up with. The original creator's 3D model is a great starting point, and I'd love to build upon their design. What kind of changes would you like to make? Would you like to add new features or modify the...

Third iteration with effortless assembly necessitating merely one M4 nut and a single bolt with a secure clip-on configuration. ... https://youtu.be/8h2t6FfQaKs

This creation was crafted using Tinkercad. ...Revise it directly online at https://www.tinkercad.com/things/7u3x2eD8h6m

This thing was made with Tinkercad. ...Edit it online https://www.tinkercad.com/things/kV4f0rcdAAG Category: 3D Printing

Another Remix. ...Thanks to ADHDesign.

With the help of 3 ball bearings sandwiched between 2 plates, these Wobble Wings will transmit only vertical motion while leaving the Ball Screw wobble as much as it wants with no effect on your print. Why not go back to lead screw? This project...

I have successfully printed and mounted the thing by tkris86.\r\nIt functions flawlessly and effectively addressed the z-axis wobble issue.\r\n\r\nI admit I'm not a fan of the boxy design of the lower part, so I created this one, by experimenting...

I have printed and mounted the thing by tkris86. It works beautifully and really solved the z-axis wobble problem. I confess I don't like the boxy design of the lower part, so I designed this one, by tinkering with the original (cutting some parts,...

Magnets: 5x3mm - 24 pieces Ball: < 3,8 ~ 4 mm ball - 6 pieces Warning: a) Observe the polarity of the neodymium magnets. ...b) Shrinkage of plastic during printing

I had 8X2mm Magnets so I modified the model to fir these. I also had 3mm bearings instead of 4, so I adjusted the height of the model to fit these. ...Also modified the 18mm wide holes since the nut holes were too small.

Magnets: 5x3mm - 24 pieces Ball: < 3,8 ~ 4 mm ball - 6 pieces Warning: a) Observe the polarity of the neodymium magnets. ...b) Shrinkage of plastic during printing =============================

Alfawise U30 Lead Screw Stabilizer and T-Nut For Alfawise u30, a lead screw stabilizer and T-nut are needed. To achieve this, a 22mm ball bearing and two 3.8mm diameter, 1cm long screws are required. Unfortunately, I couldn't find the right length...

Another step taken towards minimizing banding was introducing a gap between the motor shaft and threaded rod within the Z coupler, yielding approximately 1mm of springy movement when pressed down before reaching the shaft. ...This can be seen in the...

This anti-z-wobble bed mount in BLV-Cube printer with two SFU1204 ball screws and motor mount + lower bearing block BK10. Motor mount and BK10 is a gentle remix from https://www.thingiverse.com/Cpt_Obvious (greetings!) from project:...

Improvement of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:808509 is now available for Prusa i3 users who are struggling with the same issue. ...After implementing this upgrade, my printing problems were instantly resolved.

I created this component to stabilize the lead screw and minimize any unwanted vibration. Replacing an existing I3-08 part, it was designed specifically to work seamlessly with the 688ZZ bearing. ...Currently, I'm refining my design through ongoing...

This decouples leadscrew from rods to eliminate the leadscrew effect on 3D printing, resulting in significantly cleaner prints. Specifically designed for Prusa i3 2020 clones and Flsun printers, it makes prints look much nicer. To ensure a better...

I printed the original design but it still wasn't secure enough. So I tried out this modified version https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3254737 (which for some reason wasn't listed in the modification section) that has a adjustable screw to tighten...

This is a customized version of Thingiverse design 1600007. Created using the Customizer app on Thingiverse, this project allows users to personalize their designs. ... With the following settings: * $fn is set to 6 * Diameter inner max is set at 290...

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https://youtu.be/m6cBTyH40SUhttps://youtu.be/ePZmgOYSZPw Reinforcing cross brace for the printer frame Double Z-axis with two motors - method of design Magnetic anti- wobble nuts on the trapezoid guide screw These modifications lead to improved print...

So I designed my own anti wobble fix, that grips onto the outside of the bearing instead of the smooth rod and is a bit longer to get the arms on the right height. I am using 3 M3 15mm screws for each side. The additional bearings were added with...

However, this alteration has rendered the anti-wobble solutions devised by others unusable for me. In response, I designed a custom fix that clamps onto the bearing's outer surface rather than the smooth rod and extends slightly to position the arms...

... and nuts 30mm: + (standard bolts will not fit, need the flat ones. ) * Longer if you plan to add the cable chain pieces The non antiwobble variant is the same, you just eliminate the wobble parts and add 2 more M5 heat set inserts per x endcap.

Longer if you plan to add the cable chain pieces The non antiwobble variant is the same, you just eliminate the wobble parts and add 2 more M5 heat set inserts per x endcap. Print instructionsUnassociated tags: bearing wheel, v slot, v wheel...

The new design required two separate holders, one for the left side z rod and another for the right. To assemble it, you'll need three caps for the right-hand holder and just one cap for the left. The build requires several 20mm M3 screws on each...