x axis 3d models

This is an alternative version of printable x-Axis parts for the left and right sides of the x carriage that prioritizes features that can be easily printed over optimal filament use. It incorporates holes for a total of 8 M3 square nuts, 4 for each...

Also in two variants depending if you have a flat cable or round cable (but it shouldn't really matter).InstructionsPrint flat, no support required.Printed in 0.2mm.For the calibration (input shaping) itself:I recommend to set up your printer as if...

I designed these modifications to convert the LEO X axis into a linear rail system, resulting in a loss of 10mm in build height. Required components: -Linear Rail & Block, 300mm, MGN12H (1 set) -M3 x 8 Screws (12) -M3 x 12 Screws (2) -M3 T-Nuts (4)...

(See the last picture.) As GeraldO says - The strain on the X-axis cables of the CTC/Flashforge/Replicator printers has been documented to cause the endstop cable and/or the X Stepper motor cable to break and potentially cause a fatal short, often...

This design incorporates a floating X axis idler to help reduce Z wobble artifacts. Currently it uses an old fan duct design and is also compatible with my Z endstop adjuster. I will later update this for use with 450mm rails, which I should have...

I liked the X-axis brackets by Leo_N but they had unnecessary plastic around the hole. This means mine can be installed without having to redo all the cables! I also included the opposite frame brace with my addition. ... To print this design, you'll...

I loved the concept whpthomas came up with for replacing X-Axis cables with a patch cable, but I wasn't thrilled about using punch down blocks due to their finicky nature when dealing with vibration and frequent movement. That's why I found these...

Geoff Gregor's notes on his R2a modification state: "Summary: Nut pocket slightly bigger, screw head pocket much smaller, less damage, no more slop, screw stays aligned for happy printing (hopefully)." After struggling with a squeaking belt on my...

This is a belt tensioner for the X-axis used with ANYCUBIC MEGAX. It will probably work with the CHIRON as well. This is the easiest belt tensioner to install in my opinion. Simply attach the belt clips to the ends of the left and right belts...

I was rebuilding my Maker Select V2.1 and realized that I could move the x axis forward and backward by about 3mm. Which is bad, and the only way to tighten it was to tighten a grub nut that was behind a metal plate, a bar... and several other pieces...

I was upgrading my Maker Select V2.1 and noticed that I could move the x axis forward and backward by about 3mm, which is undesirable. The only way to tighten it was to tighten a grub nut hidden behind a metal plate, a bar, and several other pieces...

For this upgrade you need to make a minuscule modification of the acrylic box for x-axis where the idle bearings are. The belt tensioning bracket uses the hole for the plastic cover of one of the steel rods, so you need to drill one 3 mm hole in the...

It doesn't cost you anything extra, but helps me out a lot :) Print instructionsCategory: 3D Printing Summary This belt mount allows you to attach the x-axis belt to the 3D printer's carriage, without using the stock Anycubic hotend housing. If you...

This is a replica for the X-axis switch cover on the Ender 3 series 3D printers, and possibly several other creality models such as the CR10 etc, although I haven't been able to check this. If you know differently please comment!</p> <p>This will...

This is an X-axis replacement I made for my Tevo Tarantula (but will work for any 2040 extruded aluminum setup). I took the inspiration from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1580899 and modified it to be easier to print and use a single idler wheel...

This is the most robust X axis belt tensioner for Anet A6 available! You will need to use some hardware: a rivet nut, a bolt (about 40 mm long) and 2 small zip ties. Multiple models are provided for three different metal element sizes (M4, M5, and...

Cable Chain to Prevent X-Axis Motor/Limit Switch Cable Wear Print 12 Link parts, one FrameEnd part, and one MotorEnd part. Assemble the links by pushing them together on a flat surface, and they will snap securely into place. Do not attach the link...

Due to the the solid top of the on the extrusions for the Neptune 2 and differing geometry for the extruder plate, there wasn't a good way to attach the cable chain for the x axis and extruder wires. The back mount simply replaces end cap of the...

Distance between the mounting bolt holes is 10.25mm I designed an arm that bolts onto the X-axis and points the picam directly at the nozzle. It holds it just far enough above the bed so as not to interfere with any prints. I used the picam v2...

This improved mount is designed to make attaching the x-axis belt to the x-carriage on MakerFarm i3v-series printers much easier. The shaped posts provide a secure way to wrap the belt ends, while clips are included for slipping over the ends. The...

Optional end-stops: 2x M3 40-60 mm screws (if you use X and Z end-stops) 4x M3 10mm Screws Optional X-Axis reinforcement: M5 bolts and T-slot nuts to fasten the sides to the aluminum extrusion. Simply press-fitting them seems to work okay too. Max...

This is a belt tensioner for the X-axis used with ANYCUBIC MEGAX. It will probably work with the CHIRON as well. This is the easiest belt tensioner to install in my opinion. Simply attach the belt clips to the ends of the left and right belts and...

A bracket to drop and "bury" the X axis microswitch, thereby freeing up Z axis space (when drag cable is also moved), physically protecting the switch, and making the top look nicer! This is part of a bigger project to build an all-encompassing case...

Consequently, you will not achieve the full 180 mm Z height - instead, you will lose about 130 to 140 mm before the X axis stops abruptly. I redesigned the piece and relocated it to the top of the mentioned bracket. The new design is fixed as shown...

***What*** This is my X-axis tensioner, a unique one that stands out among its peers. Careful consideration has been taken to allow space for the extruder motor cable if you want to rotate the motor, moving the cable from the top of the motor to the...

... This is a different X Axis Belt Tensioner for Anet A8. It's based on the one by WedgeSD. CHANGES: -The bars (guides) of the inner piece are now separated from the piece itself, so you can print the inner piece vertically and the bars horizontally.

What This is my X axis tensioner. There are many like it, but this one is mine. I make sure to allow enough space for the extruder motor cable if you want to rotate the motor (to move the cable from the top of the motor to the back). The grip holding...

Anet A8 Belt Lock X-Axis Digital Sqrt is currently constructing upgrade kits for its customers, meticulously testing numerous variants in the process. Although several ideas proved promising, we ultimately decided not to incorporate them into our...

I decided it was time to convert the X axis to a linear rail. I combined this with my shroud design which will hold any E3D V6 compatible hotend.The X Carriage design is blatantly inspired by the Voron Switchwire; it is my design from scratch, but...

Note: You may need to bend the pins of the x-axis microswitch, and rotate the cooling fan 90 degrees so the wires do not get in the way - see pictures Note: When tightening the 2 top wheels, you should push up from the underside of the extruder, so...