x axis 3d models

My Version of the X-Axis Belt Tensioner for the Anet A6. It Features a Custom-Made Tensioner that Houses the Pulley, Along with a Modified Plate Designed to Accommodate the Bolt Sticking Out of the Tensioner. The Tensioner Utilizes an Existing Hole...

To see the conversion in action, check out these step-by-step videos: X Axis Build Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2aKaktP8r8 X & Y Axes Moving Video: https://youtu.be/wBAwJw0UcJ4 You can find the Y axis design here:...

Over time, my CR-10's X-axis becomes misaligned so I designed this guide to make it simple to check and realign. Screw them into your extrusion with 2 M4 screws and T-nuts. I leave them on all the time, just slid forward in the slots so the hot end...

I designed this upgrade based on the Improved Anet A8 RepRap X-Axis Belt Tensioner by WedgeSD, but it won't work with the stock Anet belt and won't fit into an IKEA Lack Table enclosure. To make it work, you'll need just a few parts: - 1 M3x30...

An optical illusion for the Prusa MK3S x-axis. Print InstructionsDesigned to be printed with 3 perimeters.10% rectilinear infill. ...Some users have reported issues with 10% infill and have used 100% instead.No support.Before putting the pieces...

... block. Two reliefs in the hotend clamp allow for trapping of hotend wires, preventing strain. Loosen the x-axis belt tensioner fully before proceeding. ...Install the belt on the back side of the printer with two belt clamps and 4 M3 x 12mm screws.

Removing the x-axis end pieces on the Prusa MK3(S) is difficult as they are a very tight fit.This tool allows them to be removed safely and easily.x3. M6 nuts (10 mm spanner)<br/>x2. M8 washer (outer diameter 15.9mm / thickness 1.4mm)<br/>M6 threaded...

Removing the x-axis end pieces on the Prusa MK3(S) is difficult as they are a very tight fit. This tool allows them to be removed safely and easily. x3. M6 nuts (10 mm spanner) x2. M8 washer (outer diameter 15.9mm / thickness 1.4mm) M6 threaded...

This is my version of the X axis Linear Rail mod for the Tevo Tornado. WARNING: USE THE (X_MOTOR_MOUNT_PULLEY) if your also installing the Z linear rail mod. The size and spacing of the motor mount has been adjusted for the Z Linear Rail Mounts. USE...

So, keep in mind: you'll lose 2cm of workspace on the x-axis! (1cm at each side) The longer sled also makes it more stable and less wobbly, which is a welcome improvement. There are two versions of this design. The first one combines the base...

After wrestling with the Z height issues caused by my hacked addition of an E3D Titan and E3D Lite6 hot end to my MendelMax, I decided to try a vertical X axis, hoping it would move the Titan's filament feed slightly rearward and gain some Z volume...

I've changed X axis parts often enough that I don't actually remember if a stock one will fit. The X carriage itself has holes designed to securely hold a metal NEMA 17 motor mount. These work well for mounting Titan extruders. There is no provision...

- (4) M3x8mm hex socket cap screws for the hot-end plate adapter - (10) M3x6mm hex socket cap screws for the linear rail **Installation** 1) Disassemble the x-axis assembly and attach the pillow block adapter to the hot-end plate using 2 M5x6mm...

For the X Axis mount, there's a spacer involved. This spacer gets installed into the idler pulley and then screws into the stepper motor using a screw. I used a GT2 Idler Pulley for this setup, which is relatively inexpensive on Amazon. You'll also...

The original X-Axis belt holder falls short. It is too weak and loosens up quickly with regular use. The most noticeable sign of this issue is "echo" patterns in the x direction during prints. Mine got bent, making it unable to hold the belt...

I'd love for you to check out my other designs under my profile: https://www.thingiverse.com/The_Craft_Dude/designs :P Since I wanted to upgrade the X axis on my Geeetech Prusa i3 Pro B with some 3D printed parts that wouldn't all be flimsy, so I...

After removing the factory belt tensioner spring, I found it challenging to install the X-axis belt without slightly rounding off the screw attachment holes during installation. This is due to the necessity of pre-tensioning and stretching the belt a...

Below you will see the Anet A8 X-Axis Belt Aluminum Holder made from 3/4x3/4 aluminum L-shaped angle cut using a Dremel rotary tool. A single 1/16 x 3/4x3/4 aluminum angle was used, with cuts made to the width and slots cut out using a Dremel rotary...

2GT belt clamp for the X-axis, fit for the standard plate of the Flsun Cube. In two variants -V1 - & - V2- and the old versions, without square recess. For variants without a square recess, it is necessary to use flatter nuts. Screw hole diameter:...

The bolt holding the bearing in place is a tiny 2.5mm one, which was among the spare bolts included with my P802E - it's likely used on the X-axis end-stop. Edit: A Necessary Adjustment Upon further testing, I realized that using the default...

In the original printer, this endstop was not adjustable by design.\nI initially wanted to utilize the original holes, embracing the asymmetric design, but ultimately decided on M2-bolts due to their proximity to the belt, which presented a...

This was made because the cable on the x-axis was set too low and kept dragging or catching onto what you're printing. In this print, I used 100% infill for the drag links and control box end bracket, but you can adjust it to a lower percentage if...

Noticed some lines on my print's X plane and discovered that the belt was rubbing against the angles at the top of my 2040 X axis. Quickly created a mockup in Tinkercad, printed one out, and it works flawlessly! Next, I'll need to sand down the...

The Up Mini 2 x-axis stage is notoriously fragile due to a flimsy injection molded plastic piece that holds the idler pulley in place, always under immense stress. I sought a swift and uncomplicated solution, so designed this fix. It replicates the...

These are custom covers for the Anet A6 X axis right and left support systems. They can be attached directly to the X rod with ease, providing a sleek (dust) cover that conceals the internal mechanisms of both supports. The right-hand cover proudly...

I'm modifying my Tronxy P802M to use a 2020 rail system for the X-axis carriage. I need an easy way to tighten the belt for the X-carriage. Found this Thing that will work with 2020 rails: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2020468 After printing the...

I designed a simple yet effective tensioner for my X-axis printer. It's compatible with the Tronxy X3A, but can be adapted to other printers where the belt runs within a slot-profile. This tensioner needs to be mounted at the end of a 2020 profile.

After having my x-axis tensioner snap in half during the middle of a print, I redesigned the tensioner and printed a replacement. The two ramps where the yellow arrows are have been added to increase strength near the pull force. It was in this...

The X-Axis Mount is designed specifically for the Ender-2, but it can also be used on the CR10 with great success. It simply slides into place and provides a tight fit without requiring any screws. To further enhance its functionality, this mount...

You can find that video here if you're interested https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttPl8WxwHwE Problem is while prints have been perfect since then there has been an issue of the print head assembly not staying firmly against the x axis end stop...