x axis prusa 3d models

This is meant to make the Y axis rails of the X-Carve stiffer by providing a tie between the rail and the table the machine is attached to. There are two sets of pieces, 4 brackets which tie into the side waste board mounting holes and brackets (I...

This reworked text adds a metal rod extension to your Printrbot Simple, allowing for increased X-axis length. Home Depot sells a 3-foot 5/16" metal rod for $5, while Amazon offers an 8mm alternative. With a hacksaw, you can cut the rod in two, and...

I've seen other X Axis Belt Tensioner designs that require you to reprint a whole new carriage. This design: i. fits between the IGUS slides and carriage rails ii. uses 6mm GT2 belts iii. enables use of a single 5mm cap head screw to evenly...

With inspiration from modified Makerbots and Mendels at a recent Makerfaire, I designed mendel-style bearing outriggers for my noisy X-axis carriage. This modification offers smooth and quiet operation, enhancing print quality, especially in tall...

I've successfully resolved X-axis sharpening for you on my Anet A8 3D printer. The solution may also benefit other RepRap models. To ensure precise results, I recommend printing the screw and print holder at a low resolution to prevent any...

Here is my upgraded X Axis end assemblies to replace the original acrilic parts with adjustment on the rear wheels. the filliment motor mount has been made for a short stepper motor i have insalled with a cooling fan heatsink I had to fit to keep it...

I designed this tool for effortless leveling of the CR-10(s) X-axis gantry. Over time, the gantry may tilt due to stepper motors losing sync. Simply position the tools under the gantry on either side of the printer, undo the grub screws on motor...

This is a completely revamped X axis bridge for a Flying bear P905X. Designed to integrate an E3D V6 hot-end and a 40mm part cooling fan, it necessitates a 12mm widening of the carriage bars. To achieve this, I manufactured new custom plates that...

After printing the incredible work of Rtamer, I discovered that I had to disassemble the right side of the X axis to install this part, so I made a remix to use the screw that holds the extruder's stepper motor, and extended the arm a bit. piece to...

This is my design for a high-performance X-axis stabilizer. It attaches to the mini base using three side panel screws and delivers exceptional results, enabling you to achieve very fast jerk settings and significantly speed up your prints. The key...

Do you ever wonder what happens if the X axis gets stretched? Well, my friend, that's because you're using rubber belts, which degrade quickly when printing at high speeds. A lazy solution is to print this tensor, even if it doesn't work perfectly...

I had printed this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4620590 But I thought it was a bit small, and would also like to cover to hole on the side of the x-axis. So I found this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4654645 but did not want to use the...

Another alternative design of the X axis carriage for the Anet A6 printer. This one is focused on minimal space occupation and support free printing. Diverse M3 and four M4 screws plus matching nuts are required for the assembly. The collet's...

Just a simple X-axis endstop for the lowrider cnc using cheap endstops and (2) M3x10 and (2) M3x20 bolts that thread into the PLA. The endstop that I used has a little roller on it, but I'm sure the one linked below should work just fine as well:...

Here's a detailed guide on how to create a custom cable chain system for the CR-10S 3D printer X-axis: This is a printable part that combines several components to form a functional cable chain. The design includes a total of 28 parts, which are...

If your printrbot only takes three points, you can home your Y-axis and type G30 in your Gcode editor to get a fourth point. Method 2: Manual adjustments (if you're not happy with the results) 1: Home your printer's X and Y axes. 2: Turn your...

Stock 10mm X axis sags more than this amount on my machine. This makes the nozzle either too close to the bed at the center of X travel, or too far away at the extreme ends of X travel. By doing this upgrade, was able to remove almost all of the...

I noticed that the stock x-axis motor mount would flex when I tightened the belt, so I chose to create a more substantial mount for that motor. I've seen several versions of this type of mount here on Thingiverse, but my design is more robust and,...

Zonestar P802QR2 X Axis Mounts In this remix, I've taken a few steps to improve the STL files' printability: 1. I manually repaired the STL files so they're now ready for printing (the original file had mesh issues that prevented it from printing...

In just five minutes, this installation enhances the X-axis stability of your Printrbot LC+ without requiring any drilling, disassembly, or recalibration. With a single piece needed, it simplifies the process for you. To print the required part using...

I needed a compact solution to tighten the belt along the x-axis. Previous published projects that used screws for tightening were always too bulky, so I opted for a turn screw instead. This design allows me to tighten the belt and hold it in place...

A redesigned X axis for the Anet A8 has been created. The nut recesses for the brass M3 bolts are intended for nylock M3 nuts. Due to the motor being on the front, a Z endstop cannot be used with this design. A bed levelling sensor will need to be...

Zonestar P802QR2 X Axis Mounts In this remix I have: Manually repaired the STL files so that they are now printable (The file I downloaded appeared to have some mesh issues and would not print correctly. Optionally, I have modified both parts to...

Shielding of the X-axis Stepper and Chain Cable.

This modification will safely extend your x-axis up to 155mm, allowing the auto-level probe to function effectively. The print will be performed successfully using stock components, but you'll need to execute it with some careful rotations. After...

After printing the incredible work of Rtamer, I discovered that I had to disassemble the right side of the X axis to install this part, so I made a remix to use the screw that holds the extruder's stepper motor, and extended the arm a bit. ...piece to...

Do you ever stop wondering how it happens if the X axis gets stretched out? It's probably because you're using rubber belts that wear down rapidly when printing at high speeds. That's a no-brainer, isn't it? Instead of putting up with worn-out belts,...

I saw some of the other x-carve z axis spinners and I wanted to make one that spins it more freely so I made a crank type spinner. Needs a short M4 bolt and one or two washers. ...Bolt should self tap the hole in the knob.</p> <p>EDIT: Now with Knurled...

I saw some of the other x-carve z axis spinners and I wanted to make one that spins it more freely so I made a crank type spinner. Needs a short M4 bolt and one or two washers. ...Bolt should self tap the hole in the knob.</p> <p>EDIT: Now with Knurled...

Human: FAQ: http://www.thingiverse.com/shivinteger/about \nGenerating Attributions log: \nThing Title 1 : Hilbert Curve Coasters\nThing URL 1 : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:65572\nThing Author 1 : pmoews\nThing Licence 1 : Creative Commons -...