workbench clamp 3d models

If I find out any more info, I'll update this. The heavy duty battery clamp will hold the battery even through high speed crashes (as we unfortunately found out already). You will need to align the spring clip holes with the slots and maybe open up...

I printed these parts using a delta-style printer, employing the following settings: For the Rings & Handle: - Layer height: 0.2mm - Outside perimeters: 2 - Top and bottom solid layers: 3 - Infill density: 20% full Honeycomb For the Clamps: - Layer...

Hot Bed Cable management. I actually started way back when with a Thing that fit over the exposed edge of the back left corner of the frame to prevent the cable from catching when the bed moved, but the cable still just flopped around, and I didn't...

This version of the LM8UU bearing clamps for the Y-axis (print bed) is modified to fit Prusa MK3. The differences from the source model (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1848700) are: This model is cut down in order to pass over the V-cuts in the...

I used Lepage's Liquid Steel/metal epoxy and used hobby clamps to hold the bottom and top together. I added a bit of glue to the wing connectors so those would be permanent. I didn't glue the model on the stand, it just slides on or off. When I tried...

I used a PA-09 crimper from Amazon, and some care to crimp the insulation (without pinching through it) and the conductor separately and carefully (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002AVVO7K)Note that the Pin#1 markings use the connector...

It clamps over them so it's much more solidly connected allowing for much faster printing update 20170611 added "cliponholder for diicoler" - this clips to the mount and allows thorped's fan duct to be attached added modified thorped's fan duct...

Parts are printed in halves, epoxied together, then locking "rings/clamps" glued in place to strengthen the seam to prevent splitting (**BEFORE combining the 2 swivel halves around the tilt, place the top locking ring in its position, then slide the...

I used an M2x6mm screw and nut, to 'clamp' the strap on the started that is used to cover the brushes in the original starter. And two M2.5x6mm screws to attach the Starter Back to the Starter Body.</p> <p>Four M2x6mm flat head screws attach the Rear...

For example, you could clamp the back of the stack support at the back of the base, or you could glue it to something or you could even bolt it down through the center hole into something below like a bench top or a piece of wood. Bolts work very...

For this, the blade is simply clamped, the laser inserted and the reflection projected onto a sheet of paper. I use a simple and cheap violet laser with a diameter of 13.3 mm. Then, only the distance between the sheet of paper and the blade as well...

It's essential to remember that this plastic vise is not suitable for heavy-duty clamping force, as it may break under stress and create unpredictable shrapnel-like pieces that can cause injury. This model features tight tolerances, which means you...

I also redesigned the ring so that it is clamped in place by another ring on the laser tube side of the case instead of friction fit and adhesive. This also allows for a some adjustment in the position of the ring as well as the main body. The...

Others try to clamp the cards in place by making the inside ever-so-slightly smaller than the size of a card, so you can force the cards inside and they will stay there. This requires very tight tolerances - something 3D printers aren't very good at,...

The two clamping screws use Socket Head M4x30 or 35mm with nuts. The head cannot be hex like a bolt, or it won't fit in the recess. I found socket heads best for torque and ease of use. For fan mounts, I used M3x30m with nuts. All parts are...

One problem I faced was finding a clean way to connect the cable to the battery without exposing the metal surfaces to potentially hazardous short circuits, as conventional battery clamps tend to do. My objective in this modest project is to create...

Alternatively, buy the PCB from precision-piezo, print out the groove clamp from this thing (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2841681), which is the same one that comes in the kit, and sort out the wiring. You also need an E3Dv6 or compatible hot...

3/8-16 Extra wide nuts Mcmaster 91849A625 1 3/8-16 regular hex nut, this needs the nut spacer as its used for the barrel clamping screw 3/8-16 screw 5/8 inch length Mcmater 91772A424 3/8-16 Threaded rod 2 12 inch and 1 14.5 inch 12-24 82 degree...

It just clamps on. Brilliant! It tucks the hotend fan under the extruder motor, helping to cool that motor AND push the air harmlessly to the left without the same likelihood that it will draft onto the build plate that is evident in all other...

Extra parts you'll need for this: * [GT500 throttle body gasket](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016ZKR1K) * [M6-1.0 25mm SHCS](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D9P9KKH) * [M6...

File names are self-explanatory: "NO" indicates no offset, "ID" means the hose goes inside, and "OD" signifies that hose clamps are attached from outside. Special versions for Roland and Tecnomotor machines, as well as large cutters and facing...

The aluminum counter clamp I have replaced here against a printed part made of ASA. For the fan duct I used the one from the Heavy Duty Modular E3D V6 mount. It would be important to use a silicone cover for the hotend to prevent it from cooling down...

Regular gummy mix tends to flow right through (or my clamps might be loose). I've included a full 72-gummy plate with deep grooves between the cavities for easy removal of entire batches of finished bears. If your printer can't handle such a large...

Update 20170108: I've added three new versions of the bed piece: * One with an M4x5x5mm metal insert that can be push-fitted into the hole on top, allowing for an M4 screw to clamp the glass cap to the bed piece * A version with a small 2mm hole for...

Clamp the Z-Axis Frame Top and Bottom to the X-axis stepper motor using two 1.91 x 10mm plastite screws. Leave a 2+mm gap when starting the first screw into the Frame Top. The other side will have about the same gap, tighten them gradually and...

So I'm really excited to share this simple addition that has locked mine down tight.This is a bit of a work in progress and some of you guys with way better modeling skills or understanding of the direction of forces that's coming in to play to keep...

If you want to permanently seal the Bottom and Shell parts (after you test that it's fully functioning), put some glue/silicone/sugru on the outsides walls of the Bottom part, then place the shell on it and clamp in place until dry. You may also...

The non-spring end can be any material that can be soldered to; I utilized a cut and straightened hose clamp. The power switch is simply what I had available. I clipped off all but two contacts. You may need to modify the base model if you cannot...

Sealed and replaceable without opening the DryboxThe container consists of 2 printed parts, 2 seals and a plexiglass pane.Since the diameter should be as large as possible, a new design of the drybox was necessary.After many tests it was impossible...

Preparing the rods Clamp the end of the rod in a vice which goes through the hand rest. This end has to stay as straight as possible, for a friction free rotation in the hand rest. Leave you enough material for cutting it later to length. The length...