volcano heater 3d models

I didn't have that handy when I assembled so I substituted some #4 imperial. Cooling Duct Use https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2572490 and ignore the instructions below. The thin strip at the bottom corner of the nozzles is there as support and is...

There is a cable guide built into the design which will assist with keeping everything tidy and reduce any stress on the heater and thermistor points caused by the constant carriage movement during use. The Tip cooler is bolted directly to the...

... up the way that looks best for you. Repeat this for each E3D hot end. Then simply add a hook or ribbon through one of the heater cartridge openings and hang it up. ... It can be used as a star on a tree too, but this just simply seems wrong!</p>

- Wires (AWG12): two lengths to connect the bed heater; - Wires (AWG16): two lengths to connect the hot end; - Heat shrink tubing to assemble all the wires , per connector. - Metric screws: 4x M4x12 and a set of M3 screws (M3x8, M3x10 and M3x12) -...

Connect the wires from the two screws to an endstop and configure M558 for your end stop (Again, I'll publish my settings soon.) Duet configs: config.g: M574 Z0 M558 P4 C2 I0 ; marionette in Z endstop M307 H4 A-1 C-1 D-1 ; set duex4 "heater 3" to...

Printer.cfg [temperature_fan sht42_cool] pin: PD14 # Bed Heater terminals, XYE board max_power: 1.0 max_speed: 1.0 min_speed: 0.05 shutdown_speed: 0.0 # 0.9 kick_start_time: 0.1 cycle_time: 0.01 # 0.01 off_below: 0.25 # 0.15 sensor_type:...

Assembly tips: - Disassemble your E3D V6 hot-end completely (even removing the heater and thermistor wires). - Remove the original stepper motor from the printer. - Mount the slim 17HS4023 extruder stepper motor to the printer using the original...

I'm using a big one for the heater coil connector, to make sure I don't mix that one up with something else. As you can see, it's got lettering as a printed part. I used my MMU2 to do it on my Prusa machine, but this could also be done by just...

I got a new heater for the printing bed. It was expensive, but it has been built for me by a professional company. The e-chains are from igus. The V2 is ready. Photos and more will follow! Next Step is a full water-cooled edition of this spindle...

It has a feature that allows the user to decide for how many minutes the heaters must be turned on and after that time the thermostat will automaticly turn them off (yeah like a timer... You get it now?). If you are curious about this project, you...

Just glue it in place after -Chimney at the right to zip tie your wires (prevents the wires from breaking at the heater cartridge base) -Tiny hole in the front to put the allen key through the fang to access the rear middle bolt (this bolt is...

you can use one of these in place of one of the USB power boards if you are powering a bed heater that draws more than the Duet's 18A circuit can provide: http://amzn.to/2ozFxFg - Lugs for two 5-pin Wago connectors (221-415) to be used as terminal...

FYI, I swapped the 24v bed for a 120v, 500W heater powered by an SSR; just because, and I wanted to pull as many watts off the Gen L as I could. I designed this in FreeCAD, so there isn't an assembly file. If someone wants to mod it, I can post the...

Take a look at my other sidewinder X1 upgrades: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4784042 Artillery Sidewinder X1 Extruder Cover V4 w/ Strain Relief https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4783250 Artillery Sidewinder X1 Left X Cover with Cable Strain...

This will keep a small separation so that the rod ball joints do not hit the part cooling fans. 2- With the 2 part cooling fans, I now normally run 70% fan speed.. 3- I put on a silicone sock on the E3D heater. This helps stabilize temperatures. It...

I'll use an extra set of legs (turned side ways) to get the extra height." In short, it works, and the resulting enclosure holds a BIQU B1 nicely! One minor caveat: just as many using the Prusa enclosure have had to print a new design of "heater bed...

I think the Rev 2 duct is ugly as sin (I really wanted to has easy view of the heater blocks) but it gets the job done really well, has good airflow, and it doesn't interfere with any of the main shroud's mounting bolts. This means that if you want...

Replace the heater bed ribbon cable back into the bottom of the heat bed. Slide it up and back into place from the front through the clips until the heat bed support part slots down into its counterpart on the frame. The holes in the corners of the...

Note that you'll need to upgrade the Select Mini's power supply to use the heater; I plan to create a basic guide for this soon. SOME NOTES: - No special tools (except a 3D printer) are required for this project. I used a hacksaw, scissors, a drill...

My Fan Shroud design has wider arms so it sits further away from the heater block and will hopefully be more resistant on longer prints. I increased the sloped side near the fastening nut to provide more contact area with the Extruder Cover and I...

If you're careful you can leave the thermistor and heater cartridge in the heat block and just remove the heatbreak from it. 5) Drop the washer into the heatbreak hole in the heatsink, it is held captive by the sleeve. The sleeve should be a slip...

4) Screw the motor with the BMG together 5) Put the Hotend Holder inside 6) Put the Thermistor and Heater into the Dragon Hotend Plate 7) Screw the Mount to the X Axe's Backplate 8) Screw the Hotend Fan 9) Screw the Nozzle Duct Fan to the Duct mount...

I used 3 2pin connectors for the 2 fans and the thermal sensor, a 3pin connector for the leveling probe and a 4pin connector for the 2 wires of the hotend heater. Solder the wires to the various connectors and then to the SUB-D connector. Push the...

You can see all the code is done in sections, the starter block with acceleration and jerk limits pulled from Prusaslicer, followed by the printer identifier block and parameters, then the movement block itself, followed by the standard end gcode...

The good thing about this design is that you can mount the fan at any distance from the motherboard - the highest point is the green terminals you connect the heaters to once you move some of the wires to the side and I measured that the fan needed...

I reduced the height of the hotend standoff and added additional elements for securing the Coolend_Fan_Duct (see below) as well as a strain relief section for the hotend heater and thermistor wires. A section at the back of the holder was removed to...

I'm using a big one for the heater coil connector, to make sure I don't mix that one up with something else. As you can see, it's got lettering as a printed part. I used my MMU2 to do it on my Prusa machine, but this could also be done by just...

The test setup consisted of a 12V 40x10mm SUNON fan a NTC 3950 100 K thermistor, a multimeter and a 40W heater cartridge. The thermistor was pushed inside a piece of PTFE tube to get consistent measurements between the hotends. The PTFE thermistor...

This is a very involved project, I have replaced the main board with a Duet 2 WiFi, added a 24v PSU, swapped out the Z axis and frame (kept the OEM build plate and bed heater) and upgraded the hot ends to V6 units. I had already upgraded to the...

If you're converting to 24V like me, consider using Mean Well SE-600-24 (24VDC power supply), 24V Hot End fans from an Ender 3, 24V Hot End Heater Cartridge made by BCZAMD, and 24V Hot Bed made by SIMAX3D. Of note, I didn't feel comfortable doubling...