thingiverse prusa enclosure 3d models

... for rubber suction cups. ...Designed to be mounted on the front inside of enclosure frame.(2) 3mmx16mm screw(2) 3mm square nutsUse MingDak LED Aquarium Light, 18.5-inchhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X84LQ5S?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

My MK3S is running with an print server outside of the enclosure.So I needed to get the USB-B and an USB-cable for the camera outside.For that i remixed the strain relief. ...I added two more holes with Ø3,5mm (USB cable of my camera) and another hole...

I bought a LED strip for my enclosure which I couldn't bent in normal orientation with the LEDs facing down.  So I created a mount for a vertical orientation. You need one small screw to fasten the mount and a zip-tie to fasten the LED-strip to the...

I'm looking to design a printer enclosure that's quick to print and easy to build. Pictures will speak louder than words, so bear with me as I share my project. I secured the glass panel to the movable parts using hot glue. Additionally, I had to...

This modification has made a significant difference in the enclosure air temperature for PLA prints with doors closed - increased by 32C sustained to 36C sustained. I'm eager to try ABS prints where I have more familiarity with air temperature...

I didn't like how the bottom of this enclosure didn't retain its shape terribly well, and it slid all over the desk - plus for me at least one edge wasn't quite flush with the desktop. The corners and spacers help hold the bottom of the enclosure in...

This is an enhanced iteration of Prusa's Lack Table, designed to route all cables within table feet and render tables inseparable. The updated design no longer permits separable parts. ... I have included variations for 2.5mm and 3mm thick acrylic...

Fits the 5 inch HDMI touch screen (MPI5008) for the Raspberry Pi 4I purchased it from here: https://raspberry.piaustralia.com.au/collections/displays/products/5-inch-lcd-hdmi-touch-screen-display-for-raspberry-pi-4Other Requirements4 x M3 square nuts...

I started building the original enclosure, but soon realized that some design elements were not optimal. The position of the main switch on the power supply made no sense; it was located at the back and beneath the table. I wanted to control LED...

As I was building this new, and could use the larger acrylic panels without extensions, I modeled some new full length top bars for the door so that I could have the finger cutout and keep the black bar consistent around the entire enclosure, but...

... and needs to be repaired but I don't really know how to do that. I just added shapes to the original .stl in tinkercad. I would recommend not using PLA as the heat in the enclosure plus the weight of the camera will likely cause it to sag. 

These Drawers are great but don't fit in the PRUSA MINI build volume. I wanted to use the magnets but if I scaled the model they wouldn't fit. So I did the digital equivalent of using a hacksaw and pulled out 10mm of length.</p> <p>I take no credit...

Remixed lid for this awesome enclosure, suited to Arduino RAMPS electronics. ... Following on from @cimo work, the lid has been altered to for the 20x4 I2C Character LCD display plugs with RAMPS board and Arduino Mega.

If you're planning a Lack enclosure renovation, these might be worth checking out. The hinges on this design are "Print In Place", eliminating any hassle with separate parts. At the original height, they can seamlessly integrate into your existing...

Just a 2.5mm allen key (came with the enclosure) and a flathead screwdriver are needed for tools. The hardware required is only 2 m3nS nuts and 2 sockethead screws (I used m3x12, but shorter and longer screws can be used). ... Installation video link:

Rather than let the LED strip dangle untidily from the lid of the Lack enclosure I decided to make a more rugged job. I have used PETG for my example as I know PLA will warp by the heat generated within the enclosure. No soldering is required. ...

... you can use any length screws to hold the cable clamp. Also beefed up the nylon filament holder, and refined some of the internal structure. Print instructionsIncludes a variety of models, including one for MMU printers with separate "PRUSA" text.

Bitte die MMU Dateien im Slicer teilen um die Buchstaben anders einzufärebenDas Prusa Research Logo auf dem Cable Cover ist im Slicer als Negatives Volumen ausgeschnitten worden  Please split the MMU files in the slicer to color the letters...

A variant of each design was also created for dual extrusion, with the Prusa text separated out for clarity. The nut sockets were tweaked as well. 14/4/19 - Einsy supports were raised by 0.5mm. A Raspberry cover was added to protect the electronics....

... detailed wiring diagram was added using MS Paint. Print Settings: Printer: HICTOP Prusa I3 Rafts: No supports Resolution: 0.2 layer height Infill: 50% Notes: The housing should be oriented with the switch mounting hole facing downwards on the bed.

<p>mount your raspi to your mini. ... used this design https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:922740 by 0110-M-P on thingiverse.

This mount was also made a bit more robust than the stock mount, to prevent prying fingers and wet noses.&nbsp;Mount -No additional hardware needed, no supports neededCover Plate -&nbsp;Atleast 4 heatset inserts are required to mount the cover plate...

This enclosure mounts securely onto the frame through the Arduino mounting holes. UPDATED FROM VERSION 1 IN PICTURES: Modified the entire case to make it wider for easier ramps installation. Increased the size of the Reprap decal so that the reset...

... These brackets, like all of my enclosure mod parts, use #6 x 3/4" deep-thread wood screws. ...I purchase them in bulk from the following Amazon listing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZPEWC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

By the way, I've had excellent results using the spare magnets that came with my Prusa printer - six by ten millimeter magnets in the front parts and a single six by twenty millimeter magnet centered in the back part. ... Print this modified design as...

Dies ist ein Spulenhalter für das original Prusa-Gehäuse. Ich habe darin einen MK4 mit LED-Beleuchtung stehen. Die Beleuchtung ist klasse, ist aber bei allen anderen Spulenhaltern, die ich gefunden habe, im Weg. Insbesondere 2kg-Spulen sind ein...

Btw; Ive had great success with just using the spare magnets that came with the prusa - 6x10mm in the front parts and one single 6x20mm in center of the back part. Print as you would the original part Update 28.01.20 Thanks to ohrenstoepsel for...

This is an improved version of Prusa's Lack Table. ...This remix allows you to route all cables inside the table feet and the tables are<strong>not</strong> seperable anymore.</p> <p>I included a version for<strong>2.5mm</strong> and a version...

I did not want a bunch of large drawers to keep a few things organized underneath the enclosure. I split the double drawer print into 3 separate drawers with a top tray for quicker access to daily used items. ** Also modeled the larger drawer to fit...

I did not want a bunch of large drawers to keep a few things organized underneath the enclosure. I split the double drawer print into 3 separate drawers with a top tray for quicker access to daily used items. ** Also modeled the larger drawer to fit...