test print ender 3 pro 3d models

... because the system of the locks for the rails seemed somewhat complex to me, and also the cover is a little more personalized and easy to remove since it does not bother the power cable. ...Only the box has supports, the lid is super easy to print.

... ... No need to print side locks, just use two front main screws and one from the bottom. There are two versions of the box, one of which does not need screw inserts. ... You need M3 screw inserts M2x8 screws and M2 nuts are required for side locks

Hello,\r\nI built a makeshift storage system because the original one was transferring too much tension from the belt to the threaded rod.\r\nFour 608Z ball bearings are required for use.\r\n\r\nMirror the STL file when printing.

... the cable flopping around so I made this. ...the extruder is still able to move back and forth all the way along the x axis. I don't think you will lose any print space from this. ... (also I have no idea why the pictures came out kinda weird)

End Caps for Open V-Slot 2020 with Open Hardware logo. ... This is a remix from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:398515 The air Channels would slide after printing the first layer so i made an small connection in between them that can be cutted after.

Print the wheel in halves to eliminate support needs altogether, gluing the two parts together afterwards. The axle merely clicks into place. ...The photo provided features a TPU guide, which serves as part of the extruder, rather than being an element...

... location. The scraper, however, doesn't quite fit. Printing this project was relatively quick due to its design, which mainly consists of bottom layer fill and walls. ...To speed up the process, I printed it at 180% speed without any issues.

... to have a taper that matched the new size of the vents to save a bit of material and for aesthetics. ... There were also some rogue vertices on the interior near the vent exits, not sure how they affected airflow/print quality but they have been fixed.

... M4 nuts, a washer that fits either an M4 or M5 bolt, and a 30mm long M4 bolt - preferably hexagonal in shape, but I used a Phillips head due to limited availability. Eight outlines were used to ensure maximum stability during the printing process.

... skateboard bearings. ...You will also need an m8x1.25 threaded rod, 150mm long, and a couple of m8x1.25 nylock nuts.I printed this without support, but the bottom facing bearing pocket was a little hairy. ...Worked fine but you may want to add support.

here is a part to elevate your power supply Print Settings Printer: Prusa mini Rafts: NoSupports: No Resolution: 0.2Infill: 5% Filament: Prusament PLA Black Category: 3D Printer Accessories

... I used this video from Product Design Online to better design the threads in Fusion 360. STEP File included in download. The Spool is there simply for reference, although i suppose you could export it and print it out if you need one. ...    

Make sure your printer is perfectly calibrated before printing this document. If you need to apply some force to fit the case into place, try using a little oil to help things along. ... This is the V3 case, so be sure to obtain the drawers from the...

... spool for sliding off and causing damage to the printer below. ... The plug will slot in and will be held on with nothing but friction. If you are worried you could glue it into the tube as well. Please take note of the print settings carefully.

After searching for a reasonably designed and easy to print filament guide, I have decided to design my own, which will satisfy my needs: Making the arc from the spool to the extruder more smooth. Guide the filament away from the Z-rod. ...Easier and...

You will need several screws to put the thing together (you need less than there are holes as I did not update it after the first print when I spotted some errors - but it works!) I also added space for a step-down converter to control the two 120mm...

V2 is a little too tall to go under the bed on my machine, but V3 is shorter, but slightly harder to print depending on your machine. For Assembly, I mounted my LCD first, then attached it to my printer. Either way you do it, the clearances are...

A remake from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4600264/files Housing did not fit right due to the wheel from the printing bed Made the top of the case without holes and the back also, (so no rubbish comes in it) made the part where the wheel from...

I had to make this change because my V6 Hotend mount shifted the hotend by a few mm and made the workable print bed smaller. To compensate for this, I adjusted the Y stop switch so that the bed would move down more, but this caused it to hit the...

I gave printing another belt tensioner a shot, but the belt kept rubbing up against the frame. It turned out that the bearing was smack dab in the middle of the frame, where it should have been offset down instead. So I took matters into my own hands...

This is not really a remix, more like added instruction and wiring diagram from the original design by mojama (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4343696) Filament: PLA Infill: 40-50% Toggle switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078KBC5VH Wire: about 30...

... on the right side handy to the power supply. Printing: I printed it with 0.2 layer and 50% infill. I rounded off the lower portion of the track rail so no support is needed. Placed at 45 Degree angle to fit the @ 9" length on the bed. ...

:) Printing of this component is happening right now, with the left side estimated at about 5 hours, the right side just over 12 hours. Photos (and design if necessary) will be updated after completion and mounting. Sketchup source file...

On the initial print, I encountered an issue where my Y-Axis screw heads scraped against the top of the drawer. To resolve this, I shortened the top section by approximately 0.3mm to prevent any further damage. I also increased the height of the...

This is a z-axis knob for people like me who like the Ender logo.

Bed adhesion sometimes depends on print head movement, hence both lines and arcs. Especially PET-G sticks to bed differently on lines and arcs if Z offset is not correct. I find it particularly useful when adjusting the Z offset for UBL. You can...

Made this simple layer test that is great for calibrating your bed and z axis as well as general performance.

fast and easy bed leveling test for any printer whit bed size 210 X 210 or bigger

Created a simple, quick bed leveling test in OBJ format so that it can easily be modified if necessary. Created one layer at .2mm thickness for a quick and dirty 5 minute leveling test. ... There is no gcode included in this file so it will not stop at...

... place without requiring any screws. Other upgrades for your Ender 3 & 3 Pro can be found at the links below: - Ender 3 & 3 Pro - LCD PCB Case - Ender 3 & 3 Pro - Spool Holder - Ender 3 - Rear Drawer - Ender 3 & 3 Pro - Fang - Noctua 60mm Fan Mount