tau bits 3d models

Here is a photo of an early attempt of me replacing the ceramic by a part from a piezo buzzer :Achim has written very detailed instructions for the restoration of Tefifons, including how to replace the cartridge by a cheep Chinese one that is readily...

2 x M4 20mm bolts to assemble the fit has JUST A bit of wiggle to allow for printer variations and to allow you to add "buffer" material to get the desired amount of friction fit you want. I designed it to "capture" the Osmo, which is why you have...

I recommend using a hand-drill with a 2.7mm bit to manually drill out the holes prior to assembly.Step 3: Final AssemblyThe keyboard sub-assembly should be assembled with the following steps:Lube, mod, and install the stabilizers.Install the switches...

A smaller nozzle would probably make the logo look a bit better, but the 0.6mm took 2 hours, and a 0.4mm nozzle would take 4 hours. Makes an amazing Christmas gift! No batteries! Will never rust! Precise to 5 digits! Stunning historical...

- But anyhow, a bit can't hurt, right? So I would currently recommend 9.6 if you still want to be safe.Using this bleed block you can 100% reproduce the cumbersome process described in the following video, and at the same time it will hopefully stay...

Then remove the top 2 wheels completely and press the mount onto the meatal plate until the holes line up nice on the mount and the metal plate (you may need to unscrew right hotend mounting screw just a bit since it barely protrudes out the back of...

Everything is designed to print vertically, with only the slide pieces needing supports (could be optional, but it'll look better).The compartment and lid (mouthpiece) snap together. Apply 1mm adhesive felt strips to the pegs so smooth and quiet the...

For 5mm wood screws, a 3mm drill bit works fine, but check your screws and use your own judgment! Then, screw the first rail in place. If you're installing the left rail first, remember to insert the button mechanism first!Once the first rail has...

I like to use a different layer height for the "base" versus the graph itself -- it helps to make the separation more distinct (and also improves the speed a bit). I usually use 0.2mm layer height for the base, and 0.15mm layers for the graph. For...

I spent a good bit of time trying to figure out the best arrangement of openings for wiring, and settled on "can't have too many", so there's a lot. I'm working on a plug design to close ones that aren't being used, but so far they've not been...

Added to the project found the vertical extrusions spreading a bit towards the top, added a rod to help it stay at 100mm distance, but it needs work. Rotated the gripping part of the extrusion cap and lengthened the pip in the middle. Cap now stays...

The old red LEDs I found in my spares box are a bit taller by about 1mm than the originals, so adjust the value LED_DEPTH_FROM_TOP to suit. The PDP-11/03 requires just one of these receptacles. It is also used in the PDP-11/05 where seven are...

I recommend printing this slow, at a high-quality setting, as there is a fair bit of fine detail (especially the pipes' flanges). For a ballpark figure, the "6-way" model should take around two hours when printed at 30 mm/sec with 0.1 mm layers and...

All the parts are relatively easy to print but you need a relatively well tuned printer and there are some parts that do need a bit of support. I've really tried to make as much as possible print without support but for some parts it wasn't possible...

I didn't like losing the little bit of real estate on the y-axis due to being slightly bulky, so I trimmed it close to where the front of the hotend mount is on the carriage plate. As a result I also had to adjust the mounting and filament holes for...

Play around a bit and find what works best for you. -Hop-up will need to be added for the blaster version. I am looking into ways to do this with the flywheels rather than a nub. ... What I used: Battery connectors:...

3 - Since the model is 'suspended' in a running position and is a bit top heavy when gluing, gluing order is a major consideration when building this model. The following is how I assembled the model: - Assemble the head parts and body parts (without...

https://geni.us/3DJakeElectrical wire - I’ll also be trimming down some Female jumper wires to make easy use of their connectors: Wire: https://geni.us/22AWGWireJumpers: https://geni.us/JumperWiresSome bolts: https://geni.us/NutsAndBoltsM2 x 8 ( x2...

Edit: 25/4/2018 - added a bit of tolerance (0.4 mm) to the screw holes so that they're easier to use. You can change TOLERANCE and SCREW_DIAMETER in the scad file if you want to adjust things. I did some actual measurements using an app on my phone...

... If the hole is too small, gently drill out the hole twirling the drill bit with your fingers.If you find that when you put the atom on the fridge, and the magnet falls out, you may want to use a drop of glue in the hole to hold the magnet in place.

I added some custom supports for the main body so the only supports you'll need are for the grip, you can optionaly rotate the grip part 60° to make it print standing on one of the ends (i would be careful printing like that as it may be unstable),...

If you don't need access to the second expansion card and/or want a shorter stand, version 1 is what you want.Version 2 is has:Uniform wall thickness (with one purposeful exception)The exception is below the second expansion card, the hole is wider...

Depending on your printer/setup, this hole maybe be on the tight side or a bit loose. If tight, drilling out the hole may help. If it is slightly oversized, I suggest melting the end of the filament piece with a soldering iron or lighter.</p><p>This...

The one provided is a bit small - it's very hard to put all the electronic parts + the battery inside. So I've designed this cabin (inspired from the Copper Responder) - scale ~1/32. With that version: - all the electronic components can be put...

I've printed M002 but the blue is a bit to bright (see photos). The real blue tone should be mor like the color in the Fusion360 image (see color table). Unfortunately I didn't have any other blue filament, but this one is only meant to be a...

Grommets with these dimensions will be the closest fitting grommets and come in ~.15mm looser than the 3D printed grommets ( I tightened the tolerances a bit to get a better seal with my harder flex filament, unless you achieve 100% dimensional...

This can be difficult to do, and requires a steady hand and a "step bit" in a drill.IMPORTANT!! The "drip tube" MUST have a hole (2-6mm) drilled in the top of it as noted in "kalk hole.jpg" to break the syphon action of the overflow, otherwise...

All in all, a fun project and the new KeyShot really made it simple to get the results even though I made it a bit convoluted :)The Future!I still use KeyShot 6, but can definitely see using KeyShot 10 as part of my regular workflow creating 3D...

As a result, this bows the PVC pipe a bit (as my 3-way corner fittings [see below for source] are at 90º angles), so I created 55º versions of these as well, to account for the modified angle of the front vertical pipes. In my case, the 55º pieces go...

A few other bits and tweaks. Code-compare someone else's if you want to see it all. To flash: in VSCode, if you're using 2209's, no need to change stepper type. If you aren't, change that in platformio.ini Build/upload, restart printer. M502 a...