splicing block 3d models
69639 3d models found related to splicing block.prusaprinters
This design fits on a Prusa i3 MK3 bed.Note: Please only attempt this if you already have some experience with soldering, wiring and electronics in general.Note: Some ATX PSU's may be too deep for this design so if your PSU is over 135mm deep it may...
prusaprinters
As an example if you use one of those cyclone dust separaters and fear that your holding tank might get damaged if your airflow is blocked this thing can save your stuff.The thing consists out of 2 parts that you need to print. In addition you will...
thingiverse
I also wanted to have all the tips and other accessories next to the soldering iron placed on the control block (easily removable because glued with velcro). I added a blue diode for the presence of 24V, a red diode to display the PWM output...
thingiverse
But I also wanted to get excellent placement that would not cool down the hotend block when the fans turn on. So I quickly designed some ducts, and they worked like a charm (files included). - Moving on to the SuperPINDA: I used a BLTouch for the...
thingiverse
The corner block is exposed - very easy to cut square ends on your window frame and install these. If you need one for mitered corners that the entire plastic corner fits in inside the frame and is hidden, that will require modifications and a new...
thingiverse
Version 1 blocks the visibility of the filament sensor led (You can tell how much I look at that as it never entered ny head while designing these at the start). Version 2 however came later and was tailored to deal with that issue. You can either...
thingiverse
----V3 DESIGN UPDATE 2020-11-18--- Another version, same as V2 except: 15mm tall instead of 11.3mm for longer helocid to block line of sight to fan blades completely. Simplified inner cone for wider flow area and lowest impedance. some fine...
thingiverse
Here's how I went at it: Remove the case from the hotend carriage and remove the old radial fan from it Remove the top most hexagon socket screw that attaches the hotend holding plate to the plate of the carriage roller; then replace it by the long...
thingiverse
The big adjust knob is for now only decoration, but I hope to glue a 40-60mm pulley to the clock adjust wheel on the movement(might have to solder power leads and move the battery as the wheel might block access) on the back of the cheap quartz clock...
thingiverse
For this 3-wheel version, on the Adimlab printer, I found the x-axis belt anchors were too high, so I made some little blocks to put the belt into. You will need to mirror it in your slicer for the second one. If you don't have a belt tensioner on...
prusaprinters
When printing at 100% infill, saves a solid block being made. <strong>FLEX_SLOTS</strong> Vertical slots through the wall periphery to give some flexing. This is omitted for the bottom and grip styles. <strong>FLEX_GROOVE</strong> An additional...
cults3d
Also, when you ping your AirTag no sound is blocked by the print. It also has a small hole so you can use it with a cord or keychain. Parts description This printable model is made of 4 parts: Casing: this is the central part, the thick ring...
cults3d
X-rays from the material moving away from us were mostly absorbed and blocked by the material moving towards Earth, explaining why it appeared that most of the material was moving towards us. V745 Labeled In the figure (pictured above) showing the...
myminifactory
Unlike East Pediment 1, West Pediment 1 may not have reached completion, for no extra set of geison blocks or extra acroterion has been found. Furthermore, the style and so presumably the date of the two west pediment groups are much closer than are...
prusaprinters
I used Wago connectors, but simple wirenuts or a screw terminal block will work. Use M3 screws to secure the lid to the plate and the PSU. I intentionally drilled the holes slightly too small so the screws would thread against the case. Not ideal,...
thingiverse
30x60x5mm Test Block: Twice the size of the previous. It is also something to see if your corners might be lifting. File 3. <b>Test Cylinder:</b> See how your settings perform with cylindrical objects. Check for blobs/zits, layer starts and endings,...
thingiverse
Using a grid on the end of the pipe does not work as grids catch leaves and gets blocked leading to a pipe that fills up, overflows and does not drain as intended. This hinge is designed to be clamped onto a 90mm PVC stormwater pipe with a large...
thingiverse
Both sensors are mechanical switches now (the standard microswitch end-stop boards, https://folgertech.com/collections/sensors-and-modules/products/end-stop), as they are less expensive and don't have problems with IR light not getting blocked well...
thingiverse
The holes for the magnet block are to be provided with M3 fusion threads. The M4 threads for the contact plug to the base can be cut, but can also be carefully cut with the screw. 6. the board should be fitted patiently and carefully together with...
thingiverse
If your light switch is not blocked on one side or the other I would recommend printing the Right adapter as this requires no work modifying the scene switch. ==================================================================== The right...
cults3d
I have to actually tap my bearings in using a flat block of wood and a hammer but once they are in, they tend not to come out! Given the variance of printers I can't guarantee your printer will yield the same results as mine. Your pennies may be too...
thingiverse
Turning off Night Mode is a surprisingly good option if you have street lights or keep your porch light on, but for those who want to use Night Vision, I suggest you block off the IR Light with something opaque (like electrical tape) before...
cults3d
Turning off Night Mode is a surprisingly good option if you have street lights or keep your porch light on, but for those who want to use Night Vision, I suggest you block off the IR Light with something opaque (like electrical tape) before...
thingiverse
2 - 300mm length 10mm diameter hardened linear bearing rods, not needed for Rep 1 8 - M4-20mm cap head screws 8 - M4 Nylock Nuts 2 - LMK10LUU Linear Bearings for Rep 2 and Rep 2x, LMK8LUU for Rep 1 The Z pusher file needs to be printed before...
thingiverse
### Important I used PETG plastic, but I strongly advise you to print from something heat-resistant, as parts close enough to the heater block are subject to noticeable heating. Also pay attention to the thread feeder when assembling - it must...
prusaprinters
This worked great as a Halloween animatronic project where a spooky inflatable eye follows you around the yard. Used in this project: eSun Black PLA -...
thingiverse
I printed the 4 blocks to extend the bed mount below the Z carriages. I also turned the L extrusions upside-down for additional height increase. I used washers under the screws that go against the acrylic parts to prevent any cracking that might...
prusaprinters
Thermal runaway is activated on the print-bed and the heat-blocks in this firmware. Unzip using 7-zip, winrar or 10-zip(free from the windows app store) CHANGE LOG. 15-12-2019 Added MKS TFT28 FW(Dual extruder) for people who lost functionality in...
thingiverse
Wally Gator, from an American animated television series produced by Hanna-Barbera Productions that originally aired as one of the segments from the 1962–1963 block The Hanna-Barbera New Cartoon Series. Wally is an anthropomorphic, happy-go-lucky...
thingiverse
Positioned at the lower left hole of the printer's bearing block makes installation quick and straightforward. For optimal performance, consider substituting plastic bearings with the modified ones on Thingiverse (1172838). Not only do these new...