scribetrace shell 3d models

The connecting block is still just a rectangle, and it looks like thingiverse's viewer isn't too happy that the double STL file has that connecting block as part of a separate shell overlapping the first plug. Oh, well... it printed fine in Slic3r. ... ...

Printed in ABS with 3 shell layers, 7 top and bottom layers. My infill for these parts was 30% and layer height 0.12mm, feel free to change them to your desired amounts. This case takes ~14 hours to print at 0.12mm resolution. Post-Printing This box...

# THE ODCON1  The ODCON1 is a fully 3D printable NAMCO GunCon45 inspired shell for the Gun4IR project -...

Make sure to leave enough downspout for the screws to attach.Add the diverter into each piece, making sure the orientation of the internal slope allows water to flow down and out the side.Make sure the bottom downspout is between the outer and inner...

I recommend printing all parts with at least two shells and 25% infill. No supports are needed to print anything. It's still a work in progress, getting it to work correctly requires finding the right tension balance between the elastics that pull...

... 390. Fine-tune by extruding 100mm and re-adjusting. 0.2mm layer - Body, Mount-Slider, Spring Mount 0.1 mm layer - Guide Arm, Hob Spacer, Plug, Push Fit Cap, and Spacer All prints: 3 shells and 10% infill (lines), with no supports required.

I made a shell around that. My reference geometry was a bit off, and the subsequent changes made the native CAD file a disgusting mess of shame and misery. But the design works now, which is all I could ever ask for. Extra info I'll update this when...

To recreate the stethoscope head, simply do: shell gem install crystalscad ruby source_files/stethoscope_head/stethoscope_head.rb The SCAD files output from CrystalSCAD are found in source_files/stethoscope_head/output and are named as follows: *...

This mask shell was built as my Mark II design but it also serves as the main piece of my Mark IV and Mark V mask designs. For the Mark II, I print it out and thermo-form it. I use adhesive-backed craft foam to make a simple gasket. I use some...

...Will update as result unfold! Print InstructionsIf you don't use my 3mf or gcode files for the spouted rings, make sure you turn off the Advanced setting for “Ensure vertical shell thickness” under Printer Settings → Layers and perimeters → Quality.

Print "Spacer.stl" with the following settings: (or really whatever you want) 200 micron layer height (.2 mm) 1 shell 100% infill I recommend printing them individually for uniformity (mine leaves stringy things when it moves from part to part on...

Slow down the outer shells as the walls are pretty thin, and make sure you have decent cooling or extend the minimal layer time. PLA would be fine for this. If your using a .6 nozzle like me, the screw walls on the inner side are too thin and won't...

This seals the shells and makes a smoother appearance but removes some detail. Hence, build more detail into the model...hope you like! ... Game of Thrones, Daenery, Jon Snow, Dragons, Dragon, Drogon, Bimbo, Female, Sexy, Fantasy, Sci-Fi, Boobs, Sparx,...

... I always sand down with fine emery and then have models subjected to an Acetone vapor bath for 60 seconds. This seals the shells and makes a smoother appearance but removes some detail... Hence, build more detail into the model... ...Hope you like!

Print Settings: Printer Brand: MakerBot Print Method: MakerBot Replicator 2 Rafts Used: Yes Supports Required: No Resolution Achieved: 0.2mm Infused Density Achieved: 10% Infill I printed my stand using the Makerware software, which gave me 10%...

Print instructionsCategory: 3D Printing Print Settings Printer Brand: Creality Printer: CR-10 Resolution: 0.2 Infill: 20 Notes: Printed in PETG with 4 shells for extra strength. All components printed without support except for Display foot, and...

Print settings: Use six shells and a twelve percent infill, and print at .31-millimeter layer height if you can. Print the model as is for the Front piece and MIRROR the part Z axis for the Back part. Position the part on its back with the legs...

Quality layer height: 0.2 Shell wall line count: 8 top layers: 8 bottom layers: 8 Infill Infill density 40% (the upper is better done in 100%) infill pattern: cubic support generate support: Yes Build plate adhesion build plate adhesion type: Brim...

Print Settings Infill: 20% Notes: All parts can be printed without supports, except for the chin-rest Recommended printing parameters: 4 Shell thickness. 3 top down solid thickness. 20 % infill 0.20mm. layer heights. Post-Printing If you print on...

Unfortunately, most of Stasov's interiors—specifically those dating from the reign of Nicholas I—have not been restored after the destruction caused by the Germans during World War II.[citation needed] When the German forces retreated after the...

I print with 3 shells, but 2 seems to work as well. Bolts onto the fan in place of the original fan shroud using the same screws. Mine is PLA, and so far I've only experienced very minor warping that doesn't affect functionality at all. This could...

There are still some warp issues that are unavoidable, which should be handled by the screw points that hold the cover shells together. --Added lots more cable management. --Added a side cover to support two buck converters with easy access to...

Print Settings Printer: CTC Bizer (Replicator Clone) Rafts: No Supports: Yes Resolution: 0.2 mm Infill: 30 Notes: Print with 2 shells and at minimum use ABS | Roof and floor height - 1mm | Layer height - 0.2mm | 30% infill with a linear pattern...

I recommend at least 4 shells and a 0.8mm roof and ceiling so it reduces vibrations that could warp the sound.Side Plate:There are two versions, one with my name and another one left blank. If you would like me to make one with your name or design on...

Carefully open the solenoid body by prying apart the shell and popping out the front plate. Remove the bushing from the solenoid core. Drill about 6-10mm from the inside of the bushing out. Then trim about 3mm of the rear of the bushing to make it...

Some tips for printing and building follow: Print all my models with a 0.4mm nozzle and 4x shells (1.6mm) for strength and to provide a thick enough surface for sanding. Print all parts at 0.12mm layer height to maintain details and fitting...

You just have to plan to separate them smoothly from one another. Provide A layer height that is thin enough for the holes in the hinges to be precise enough 3 or 4 lower and upper layers for finishing. 3 contour / perimeter shell for strength. 35%...

Some tips for printing and building follow: Print all my models with a 0.4mm nozzle and 4x shells (1.6mm) for strength and to provide a thick enough surface for sanding. Print all parts at 0.12mm layer height to maintain details and fitting...

... the lids in their open position. Align the lowest gear tooth with the bottom gear teeth of the cart Place the entire lid and cart combo into the main shell. ...It should click into place (and that's why having an accurate printer is a requirement).

Wire an xt60 connector to the motor inside the Zeus and run the wire out the bottom of the shell. Connect one end of the hose wire to the blower/agitator assembly and the other to the motor xt60, and confirm that when the Zeus is revved the blowers...