prusa y axis vibration 3d models

This kit enhances the precision of the Y-axis, although it operates at a slower pace. ...It's specifically tailored to fit a 6mm polycabonate frame, but can be effortlessly adapted to suit steel or aluminum frames as well.

I had to free up some room on my Y-axis, so I shortened the idler holder. ...My belt tensioner was already mounted on the build table, so I didn't need it attached to the idler.

Holding the nut in place under the Y-Axis corner frees up your hands to easily make adjustments and test the Y-Axis's level. To continue: Print 2, 3 or 4, depending on how many corners you're leveling by tightening the bolts. Remove the nut, attach...

... have that issue. This design allows you to add adjustability to your 3D printer's Y-axis by mounting it on the outside of a P3Steel frame or on the inside as shown in the picture. ... You can attach this endstop using two M3 bolts and two M3 nuts.

... The genius Taurus Y axis: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3269389 I built it with this super MGN12 solution: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3847800 It probably works with LM8UU bearings too, but I haven't tried it that way. ... Blog Instagram

I've created this new y-axis clamp to replace the broken original one without needing to disassemble the entire main frame. This versatile tool can also be used to fix the z-axis if needed. ... To make it, you'll need: * 3 M4 nuts * 1 M4x25mm screw * 2...

This is a modification of the original prusa i3 y motor support designed by uwd888, published on July 25, 2014. The previous model does not match the new Prusa i3 MK2 version released in March 2017. ... Additionally, this updated design eliminates the...

This is an addition to the vibration damper made by Hofftari (thing:1707045) , in this case made from scratch and designed to stay below the Z frame. it is larger than other models you can find, and for me work very well. the orange elements are two...

This is a remix of Grégoire Saunier's original Y axis rod holders for the Prusa Bear upgrade. Although using zip ties to secure smooth rods is perfectly in line with reprap aesthetics, I personally felt it took away from the beauty of the Bear kit.

I axis tensioner for Prusa i3 needs two 624Z 13x5mm bearings and two M4x25 screws use nyloc nut on the tension screw version 2 only uses one bearing regular M4 washers are a good alternative no raft or support is needed print at 0.2 mm resolution...

#Cons:# - Unable to home in Z with the probe, Have to move manually to Z0 and tell it with G92 Z0 (for now) - Y dimension gets stretched the higher Z gets, which causes under extrusion in Y, not in X - Bridging is difficult as it is a curve now...

#Cons:# - Unable to home in Z with the probe, Have to move manually to Z0 and tell it with G92 Z0 (for now) - Y dimension gets stretched the higher Z gets, which causes under extrusion in Y, not in X - Bridging is difficult as it is a curve now...

My take on a beefed up Y-axis motor mount with built-in end stop. Requires: 1x M3 x 10 (reuse from stock) 2x M3 x 25 (from included spares bag) 2x M3 lock nuts (reuse from stock) Recommended material: PETG or ABS. NOTE: The picture is of an earlier...

The innovative Taurus Y axis: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3269389 I assembled it with this high-performance MGN12 solution: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3847800 It likely functions with LM8UU bearings too, but I haven't tested it that...

Now let me explain the assembly of this device, first, there is the Y-axis frame mount which is fixed to the frame below the y-carriage and what really secures it in place is a nut screwed onto the threaded rod, and it also gets tightened by that...

I swapped out the i3V 8" wooden switch holder for a custom-made one, allowing me to fully utilize my Y axis's maximum travel range. This upgraded end stop bracket empowers the Y rollers to reach their full extent, granting me a much wider working...

This is a modifcation of prusa i3 y motor support by uwd888, published Jul 25, 2014 the previous version does not fit the new Prusa i3 MK2 version from March 2017 Also this version has the advantage of not requiring the removal of the lower motor...

Another modification of http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:153851 I've made several derivatives of the original idea by diabliyo, it's a good approach. ...This one puts the limit switch closer to the centre of the machine, stopping the Y axis sooner.

I encountered issues with my Y-axis belt skipping steps on GT2 gears, prompting me to create a solution that resolved the problem effectively. ...To achieve this, I utilized an 8mm x 22mm x 7mm 608ZZ bearing and reinforced its position with a sturdy zip...

Determined To Get Rid of Y-axis Lash For Good, I Set Out to Design a Belt Tensioner to Replace Those Flimsy M3 Nuts. It Took Me Several Hours to Figure it All Out, but I Finally Got There. And Let Me Tell You - It Was Worth Every Minute. With My...

... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:153851 - my modification of diabliyo's innovative design is really taking shape now. ...In this latest version, the limit switch is positioned closer to the heart of the machine, significantly curtailing Y axis motion.

Replacement parts for the Y Axis mount of a Geeetech Pro W. Print these with PETG or ABS to get maximum stability. ... Not tested yet, but nearly a 1 to 1 replica, holes should fit, the corners are a little bit different...

... fix addresses the misalignment problems that certain MK2 printers experience with the power supply unit, causing it to not align properly with the PSU. ... You can modify your version at: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/h6lcYaUagGD-prusa-psu-y-block

This is yet another Y-bearing clamp specifically designed for the Prusa I3 steel printer. I created it so that my heatbed plate would be perfectly centered, thanks to its self-centering mechanism. ...The clamps fit very snugly, likely requiring some...

The advantage of this design is that the linear bearings won't hit the backplate of the frame anymore to mark the back end of the Y axis. Instead, the belt holder under the Y carriage will hit the "STOP" part of the Y motor mount which puts less...

This is a custom Y endstop designed for the Sunhokey Prusa i3 acrylic 3D printer. I created this modification to lower my endstop, which involved recreating and modifying the original design to move the circuit board down. The original endstop...

... apart. The orange part was printed using a DC motor on x-axis but a stepper on y-axis. This is the type of motor used: Mitsumi 448P R-AB phase encoder encodes tacho motor speed disk DC3V, 24V, 5V, 12V. ...Once installed, this is the system running:

I'm not a fan of zip ties on my printer either, which is why I took matters into my own hands and came up with some custom mounts for the Y-axis - a crucial component of any reliable printer setup. ...The bolt holes in these mounts are approximately 2...

Prusa i3 Y LM8UU bushing. M3 nut and bolt are needed. Hole spacing is a crucial 20mm apart. No ziptie required. Printed with reliable PLA. Update September 27, 2016: Dimensional drawings were added to answer critical questions. Update August 14,...

Human engineers have designed specialized blocks to accommodate the longer LM8LUU (8x15x45mm) linear bearings on the Prusa i3 aluminum Y-carriage. This innovative design features two M3 recessed screw holes, spaced precisely 20mm apart, with a...